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Not far from the museums is this exhibit of slightly foxed and faded Eastern European grandeur. Ognisko, restaurant of The Polish Hearth Club, is open to non-members and to anyone weary of fashionable, minimalist cooking. Sitting on gilded chairs at pink-clothed tables, tuck into blinis with smoked salmon, Sevruga caviar and soured cream; salad of smoked eel and avocado; bortsch with kolduny dumplings; stuffed fillet of beef with buckwheat; knuckle of pork Bavarian-style; bigos (Poland's national dish of smoky sausage, stewed pickled cabbage and dried mushrooms); and pancakes stuffed with sweet cheese, rendered crisp by frying. Calories are not counted here, nor are the glasses of vodka you knock back.

Ognisko Polish Club
Princes Gate, London, SW7 2PN