Oslo Court

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For a certain kind of North Londoner, a birthday wouldn't be a birthday if it wasn't celebrated at this timewarp restaurant located on the ground-floor of a block of flats near Regent's Park. On a Monday night we counted five cakes carried in stately procession, each time accompanied by a phalanx of dinner-jacketed waiters gravely intoning 'Happy birthday to you'.

However, lack of occasion for a cake does not make a meal here any less celebratory. Built into the set price (£28.50), three-course menu with its seven ways with potatoes, ten vegetables to choose from, the pile 'em high dessert trolley and the petits fours to follow is the idea of a meal as a bit of a blow-out, candles or no.

The difficulty of obtaining a booking at short notice vindicates the convictions of those who distrust modern cooking and see nothing to be improved about a meal that starts with grapefruit grilled with brown sugar and sherry followed by steak Diane flamb?ed with shallots, mustard, Worcester sauce and brandy.

These dishes, thank the Lord, are available here, as are crab ? la Rochelle (and a happy birthday to her, too) and veal schnitzel Holstein (incidentally, faultlessly prepared). It is quite possible to eat more simply and less calorifically since another speciality of Oslo Court is fresh fish of the day, which it is happy to serve poached or grilled.

Our dinner - not an anniversary but a toast to the literary achievements of friends - featured some fine, fresh asparagus vinaigrette; a gratifying old-fashioned avocado-and-prawn cocktail; duckling cooked to a crisp with the help of a deep-fryer; and the thin, crisp veal schnitzel with capers, anchovies and a fried egg. Petit-pois ? la fran?aises, a nice pale-green sludge of peas, was our preferred vegetable dish. There seems to have been a bit of a makeover with the interior. There is a pink-and-cream marble paint-effect on the walls and the ruched nets at the window are encased in scalloped, interlined frou-frou chintz. I won't have a word said against it.

Oslo Court
- Charlbert Street, off Prince Albert Road, NW8 7EN