Ramsay tries out the P-word (that's pub) - Restaurants - Going Out - Evening Standard
       

Ramsay tries out the P-word (that's pub)

Gordon Ramsay is already the dominant haute cuisine chef in the capital with nine restaurants in the West End, including some of most celebrated and expensive venues, such as Claridge's, the Savoy Grill and the Connaught.

Now the Michelin-starred TV cook is branching out in a new direction for his 10th establishment - both geographically and in terms of cuisine.

Ramsay is to spend more than £6 million transforming the Warrington Hotel in Maida Vale into a gastropub, the first in a planned series. Gordon Ramsay Holdings, his restaurant company, has reportedly paid £5.2 million to buy the Victorian hostelry, which has a stunning art nouveau interior.

The ground-floor saloon - which is Grade II listed - features a long, curving bar with a carved base, while the walls are adorned with ornate plasterwork, cherubs and mirrors. Upstairs has long been home to the popular Ben's Thai Restaurant.

A source at the Warrington said: "Gordon Ramsay's firm has spoken to the people here about moving out - now all they are awaiting is contracts in writing. "The people who run the Thai restaurant are expecting to leave by early next year. They are quite worried as they don't know where they are going to move to."

The Warrington, which ceased to be a hotel long ago, has an intriguing history. Built in 1859, it was rumoured to have once been a brothel. Locals believe this may be more legend than truth, as the pub used to be owned by the Church of England.

It was extensively revamped around 1900 and in recent years has been a popular haunt with musicians because of its proximity to the BBC radio studios. Bob Dylan and Starsky & Hutch actor David Soul have both been spotted at the bar.

There is speculation that Ramsay, whose Hell's Kitchen and Kitchen Nightmares TV series were both successful, might base a new programme-around the redevelopment. One restaurant critic, who declined to be named, said that while he admires Ramsay, he fears that he will find it difficult to maintain such high standards as "the machine" continues to expand.

"Given Ramsay's prices elsewhere, I would be surprised if the Warrington was not a lot more expensive than your average gastropub," the critic added.

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