Shock-and-awe wine list

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The Greyhound may represent the latest turning point in the history of the gastropub.

This hound looks like a gastropub; is as comfortable and as friendly as a gastropub.

But you are in a restaurant.

The prices are resto prices and the wine list is long enough, and considered enough, to grace any top-flight dining room.

The menu is commendably short - four starters, four mains, four puds - and the kitchen has real passion.

'Argentine beef tartare' combines chopped fillet with popcorn and space dust so that it crackles in your mouth - good fun, and a good flavour; it's served with blobs of foie gras cream, red chard and an oyster beignet.

Another starter may be the Golden Valley goats' curd salad - this comes fried with golden beetroot and artichoke heart.

The main course options may range from duck breast, to mutton, tuna, and pasta.

The duck is well cooked and comes with fluffy black pudding.

The mutton sits on a bed of houmous.

The veggie option is triumphant - three different pastas, three different sauces: cheese (good); salsa verde (better); wild mushroom (best).

Puds are equally complex and delightful.

Overall, the elegance and complexity of the dishes means that service can be a tad ragged, but it is hard to worry.

The Greyhound delivers good and passionate cooking, you'll see original ideas and even if the bill is on the high side, on balance it will be worth it.

The Greyhound at Battersea
136 Battersea High Street, SW11 3JR