Sink your fangs into a steak

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Broadway Market in Hackney is the unlikely setting for a jewel-box collection of terrific independent restaurants, such as Little Georgia and Armadillo. Now it's got Santa Maria de Buen Ayre and those of us who live in less foodily favoured locations can only look on enviously.

This is a no-airs-and-graces parilla restaurant: a basic, smoke-belching Argentinian barbecue. The menu is succint: a few empanadas (stuffed pastries, we had the cheese and spinach and chicken versions, both fine), some sandwiches and braziers featuring teetering piles of blood pudding and sweetbreads.

And steaks. A massive bife de chorizo (sirloin) and a fillet were both resoundingly good: deeply flavoured, with the yielding, velvety quality of the well-hung.

They didn't really need their chimichurri (garlic, chilli and herb) sauce or the accompanying salty chips (suspicions of the catering pack but double-fried into crispy addictiveness, so who cares).

And we didn't need the indulgence of dulche de leche cheesecake and almond tart but had them anyway. We staggered off with the glazed look of the viscerally satisfied. And smelling like kippers.

Meal for two with wine, water and service about £70. Santa Maria de Buen Ayre, 50 Broadway Market E8. Tel: 020 7275 9900. Rail: London Fields

Buen Ayre
Broadway Market, London, E8 4QJ