Solid and reliable gastropub

It is old-hat now, but when the Atlas opened it was one of only a few places that accurately judged the mood.

Success has bred success and this is now the first link in a gradually increasing chain.

The flavours come mainly from Italy with the occasional North African and Spanish diversion, plenty of upfront flavours, and an identical tone is adopted in all the pubs.

The menus are seasonal, so starters may include asparagus and leek soup with olive oil and shaved Parmesan, and a serious antipasti plate - goats' cheese frittata, pea purée crostini, and roast ox tongue with onion marmelade.

There are a couple of midway dishes that could either be starter or main, such as conchiglie with slow roast vine tomatoes.

Main courses include grilled Tuscan sausages, with fennel and black pepper and baked polenta; salt roast loin of pork with thyme and honey; and 'Caldeirada', a Portuguese seafood stew served with mint and lemon rice.

The afters selection is short and to the point - a decent chocolate cake vies with 'Montgomery's Cheddar and Gorgonzola' served with pear and grilled bread.

The wine selection is also chalked up, and there are some unusual offerings served by the glass, which makes The Atlas a good venue for wine lovers in search of a bit of impromptu tasting.

This is a busy, noisy, friendly and young place, and the food is good into the bargain.

The Atlas
Seagrave Road, London, SW6 1RX