South American embassy to the republic of Hackney

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The staff care because this resto has an owner-driver, the menu is unusual because it is based on South American home cooking, and the standard of that cooking is good enough to have won several awards.

The dining room is bright and colourful, and although the menu uses some unfamiliar South American terms, after a couple of the excellent caipirinhas (a mixture of fierce white spirit called cachaçà, sugar, crushed limes and ice) the friendly explanations from the staff will start to make sense.

To start there may be a Bolivian cheese, onion and chilli pasty served with a green tapenade; fried squid and cassava with sauce criolla; tilapia in a ceviche made with peppers, red onions and blood oranges; or chicken anticucho, potato and black mint crema.

Mains range from the slightly bizarre - ostrich meatballs, corn cake and watercress, to more straightforward dishes like roast suckling pig with Columbian beans and chorizo, or sea bream baked in a banana leaf with coconut and ginger sauce and fried plantain.

Puddings are equally novel.

Spicy chocolate ice cream and amaretti is home-made and delivers what it promises, while pionon with manjar is a kind of Peruvian Swiss roll.

Wines are mainly from South America and Spain and are reasonably priced.

Or perhaps 'Quentão' appeals - a Brazilian spirit, mulled and served with ginger and orange? For the summer there are four or five tables in the courtyard - booking is essential.

Armadillo
41 Broadway Market, E8 4PH