Spiritual home of the Essex crowd

His other claim to fame was that he was the first restaurateur to offer a hot dish as hors d'oeuvre.

When Sir Terence Conran redesigned and reopened Quaglino's, more than 60 years later, his vision was essentially the same.

The ambience is still impressive - an elegant reception, the sweeping staircase into the bar that overlooks the main restaurant, and the second stairway down to restaurant level.

If this kind of thing rings your bell you will be happy here.

The menu is simple, classy and brasserie-style, with very little to scare off the less experienced diner.

The plateau de fruits de mer (extravagantly priced and for a minimum of two people) is as good as you would hope, as is the whole lobster mayonnaise.

Fish and chips is served with home-made chips and tartare sauce and is excellent, while a 42-day-aged Glen Fyne sirloin steak is a treat when served properly cooked, as it is here.

Puddings are straightforward and agreeably predictable - blackcurrant parfait; apple Charlotte, clotted cream.

Quaglino's staff can be brusque, but then marshalling large numbers of glamour-seekers is a testing job.

You can avoid this altogether by staying in the bar, which offers highlights from the menu - including all the seafood.

Furthermore, Quag's is open late, which makes it perfect for a genuine after-theatre dinner.

Quaglino's
Bury Street, London, SW1Y 6AJ