The Cow Dining Room

After going dark for a while, the dining room above Tom Conran's pub The Cow was opened at end of August 1996 by Francesca Melman, who has worked at The River Cafe and at Alastair Little Lancaster Road. She has inherited a small but perfectly formed restaurant. Well-designed (as you might expect), laid-back, almost countrified, it is, I would imagine, a budding chef's dream. And apparently the kitchen upstairs is equipped to a very high standard. Melman has introduced a daily-changing menu, served in the evenings only from Monday to Saturday and at lunchtime on Sunday. Basing this evaluation on one meal - there was only time before press date for one meal - the list is Italian-ish.

In the first course there was ribollita (twice-cooked Tuscan bean soup); verdura mista with bruschetta; and baked goat's cheese with tapenade toasts; but also Caesar salad and a (light and delectable) onion and Parmesan tart. In the main course, skate wing came poached in minestrone; lemon and fennel flavoured a risotto; and rib-eye steak was served with couscous salad. Some fried aubergines served with monkfish had, like pieces of sponge, absorbed far too much fat. Lamb's sweetbreads with pancetta, thyme and cream were fine. That best of all ice-creams, caramel, came with a friable, sand-coloured biscuit. Service is friendly and caring. A nice re-invented addition to the area.

WINE: The wine list suits the set-up well.

The Cow
Westbourne Park Road, London, W2 5QH