The Criterion

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This extraordinary site resembling a Byzantine station concourse, originally opened in the 1870s and bought by Forte plc in 1949, has seen some odd incumbents. It seems meet and right that the glittering talent of Marco Pierre White should be the one to restore gastronomic glory; in visual terms he has been helped by David Collins, who has added seraglio lighting and exotic paintings. Here is found White's diffusion line of cooking, executed by former Canteen chefs Tim Payne and Peter Reffell, and some dishes will be familiar to those who have followed White's career. Fortunately for his customers, he only knows one way of doing things: uncompromisingly. The menu offers not the grills and salads and exotica of the modern brasserie, but meticulously made dishes such as beignets of oysters with celeriac remoulade; smoked-salmon soup with fromage blanc; Savoy cabbage ancienne; saffron risotto; smoked haddock with poached egg and beurre blanc; pot-roast pork with spices and ginger; and souffl? of blackberries. Pressure for tables means that all is not always perfect: complaints are made about service and about time limits being imposed for dining. Lunch is more relaxed - and significantly cheaper.

The Criterion
224 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB