The Establishment tastes so good you’ll want to move in

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The drinks list pretends to be written by Buster the bull terrier, pictured in photos all over the walls. Not sure what the joke is, but credit to Buster, he mixes a fine martini. A fragrant Olde English Martini (Malmesbury Dry Mead with Tanqueray gin, £7.50) came with wild flower honeycomb on a cocktail stick, an inspired twist on tradition.

The same held true of the modern British menu. My pumpkin soup (£5.50) was subtly exciting (was that lemon and honey in there?) and yet warmly familiar. The date’s "jolly good quality" foie gras and chicken parfait (£7.50) was laced with Pedro Ximenez sherry, all served in an adorable little jam jar. His main, silky venison with wilted lettuce, smoked bacon and baby turnips (£16.50) slipped down just as easily. I normally think chicken’s boring but my corn-fed hen, with poached chestnuts, pearl barley and parsnip purée (£13.50) made me rethink; I had to order more homemade bread to mop it up.

Desserts perhaps should be avoided to judge by my raspberry crumble (£5), a syrupy puddle with teeth-shattering topping. Instead go for a yummy White Chocolate Martini (XO rum shaken with Green & Black’s white chocolate, served with fresh strawberries, £7).

With efficient courteous staff, a civilised outdoor area, and a location right by the Tube it’s no mystery why The Establishment already seems to have become well-established.

The Establishment
45-47 Parsons Green Lane, SW6 4HH