The Parisian quartier of Chelsea

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But now it's a pub that has a small, glassed-in area in front, covered with tables and chairs.

How very Parisian, you might think, and you would be right.

This is a French place.

It is run by Monsieur Garnier, who has spent most of his career in the slicker reaches of London's restaurant business.

With his own place he has reverted to type and everything is very, very French.

The menu is French, the cooking is French, the service is French and the décor is French.

The cooking is about as good as you would have found in a smart Routiers in rural France during the 1970s.

Starters include such bistro classics as oeufs pochés meurette; soupe de poissons; and feuilleté d'escargots à la crème d'ail.

And there are oysters; goats' cheese salad; duck liver terrine; and tomato and basil salad.

Listed under 'les poissons' there is flétan sauce beurre blanc (halibut), and coquilles St Jacques à la crème de morilles, which is scallops with morel cream sauce.

Under 'les viandes' there is steak tartare with pommes frÎtes; filet de boeuf au poivre; and saucisses de Toulouse aux lentilles.

Under 'les grillades' are the steaks and chops.

Puddings include crêpes Suzette.

Both the service and the approach to wine are as French as the menu.

Le Colombier
Dovehouse Street, London, SW3 6LB