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The Square
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10 January 2001
This review was first published in January 2001
Some people think of The Square as a stuffy place, but they are wrong. The Square is a very serious restaurant. The chef, Phillip Howard, is a thoughtful bloke and his brigade turns out some of London's most considered cooking. Rich combinations of flavour and texture. Elegant platefuls. The wine list is a pain-staking labour: long and involved, it offers some truly great bottles. None of the above comes cheap, and no more it should. The Square is not a place to drop by for a casual nosebag (unless you are very, very rich). The Square is about dining on a special occasion - the sort of evening when everything needs to be truly memorable and truly extravagant. Even the bill.
The Square
Bruton Street, London, W1J 6PU
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