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This all sounds a bit cold-blooded in the wacky world of restaurants but, if the revamped Greenhouse is anything to go by, it works. Much better decor still doesn't hide the fact that it is not a greenhouse but the ground floor of an apartment block.

However, the cooking is sublime and the wine list Biblical. Executive chef Bjorn van der Horst has trained with the Haeberlin brothers, Joël Robuchon and Alain Ducasse. Impressive CV. Watch out for the Japanese Umu in Bruton Place and Morton's Club where the company has also made its MARC.

The Greenhouse
27a, Hays Mews, W1G 5NY