Unfussy food is king of the Road

An unfussy, white-tiled entrance section proudly displays an open kitchen: "We've got nothing to hide", it says. Cheerily undertrained staff lead you to a sunken dining area beneath a huge airy oval light well.

White walls, ox blood leather banquettes, dark stain floorboards and wooden tables - this has all the expensive simplicity you'd expect from a local restaurant, yet the locale is W2.

But what rules about this lovely place is that despite its location, it has all the quality, attention to detail and style of being on the swishier side of Notting Hill, without the price tag to match. A carafe of tap water, for example, is instantly brought without request, as are fresh, warm bread and perfect butter.

The menu is of the old school (but ever so trendy) nose-to-tail variety. The butch likes of ox tongue and green split peas (£12.90) may prove alarming to less offally minded diners, but there were awfully good options for us girlies too.

My terrific-value starter, salt pollack fish and butterbeans (£5), was so lively it was practically still flapping, and its unusual tangy flavour combination made my tastebuds twist with delight. I would come back just to have it again. My friend's beetroot, sorrel and boiled egg (£5.90) was as exciting as it sounds.

Her pinkly impressive rack of lamb (£15) though, she considered "chewy", which made me feel guilty since my main, braised shoulder of hare (£12.88), is now in my list of the top five best things I've ever eaten. Meltingly tender, swimming in gravy and mash, it had all the comfort of home-cooked food, without the obligation to wash up.

Like St John, so-called since it is situated on St John Street, Hereford Road's uninspired name disguises an inspired way with humble, fresh seasonal ingredients. It does way more than what it says on the tin, and without a tin in sight.

Hereford Road
Hereford Road, London, W2 4AB