Upscale temple worships all things fishy

And for some strange and unaccountable reason that seems somehow inevitable.

This restaurant is one of those svelte organisms that lives within a pricey hotel rather like a hermit crab in an old whelk.

That means a spacious dining room, a slick bar and a three-day march to the toilets.

The front of house staff are really on the ball here and they'll take you off in search of a urinal without batting an eyelid; maybe they have to escort punters to avoid them getting lost.

The standard of cooking is very high, as is the quality of the fish, and consequentially the prices.

Starters range from a page of witty ways to serve Royal King Crab legs (flown in from the Barents Sea) and you could choose to have them grilled with spring onions and sweet chilli ginger sauce, to another page of different ways with smart French oysters.

Every dish is precise: a starter of sautéed tiger prawn comes with a coconut and tamarind sauce - sophisticated stuff.

Or red mullet soup Provençal; saffron shellfish chowder; lobster salad with green mango remoulade.

Mains are grandstand numbers - a whole sea bass comes to table baked under a mound of salt.

A pavé of Dover sole is roast and served with pan-fried langoustines.

There's a whole roast baby monkfish.

Everything glides to table in an elegant fashion.

The wine list prices scamper out of reach pretty quickly.

Puds are exceedingly ornate.

But if you want top fish this is the place to get it.

One-O-One
Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7RN