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Well-made sushi at conveyor belt prices
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28 September 2006
Serving good sushi without being impersonal or intimidating is a difficult trick for any conveyor-belt sushi restaurant, but Kulu Kulu pulls it off.
This place is light and airy and there are enough coat hooks for a small army of diners.
The only thing you might quibble over is the rather low stools - anyone over six feet tall will find themselves dining in the tuck position favoured by divers and trampolinists.
The atmosphere is Japanese utilitarian.
In front of you is a plastic tub of gari (the rather delicious pickled ginger), a bottle of soy and a small box containing disposable wooden chopsticks.
The plates come round on the kaiten, or conveyor, and are coded by design rather than colour, which could prove deceptive.
Do not worry too much as prices are reasonable and having a couple of plates from the top price band rather than the lowest won't break the bank.
All the usual nigiri sushi are here, and the fish is particularly fresh and well presented.
Choose from maguri, or tuna; amaebi, or sweet shrimp; salmon roe; hotategai, or scallops - very tender, very sweet.
Futomaki is a Californian cone-shaped roll with tuna.
The top plates tend to be ritzier fishes such as belly tuna.
As well as the sushi, the conveyor parades some little bowls of hot dishes.
One worth looking out for combines strips of fried fish skin with a savoury vegetable purée.
It counts as a basic sushi, as does the bowl of miso soup.
For the indecisive, mixed tempura is good and crisp and there's also mixed sashimi.
To drink there is everything from oolong tea to Kirin beer, by way of a special sake made in Rocky Mountains of the good ol' U.S.A.
Kulu Kulu Sushi
Brewer Street, London, W1F 9TX
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