Where to eat sustainably sourced fish

"It's a minefield," reckons Geetie Singh, owner of organic gastropub the Duke of Cambridge in Islington, while over at Konstam, in King's Cross, head chef and owner Oliver Rowe admits: "I'm scared to buy something in case it's detrimental to fish stocks."

It's for exactly this reason that the Marine Stewardship Council (msc.org) — an international non-profit-making organ-isation that promotes responsible and sustainable fishing - is extending its "eco-label", a distinctive fish logo incorporating a fat blue tick. You may already have noticed the logo in the supermarkets; it's been around since 2000 and is displayed on many products — from Asda's value fish fingers to posher options such as Young's frozen salmon en croute.

Using a system of classification backed up by independent scientific reviews, the logo certifies that fish can be traced all the way back to healthy stocks and sustainable fisheries, and that they have been caught in a responsible way. In other words, someone else has done the research, so you don't have to. Currently, the MSC has certified 26 fisheries worldwide and has another 68 under assessment.

Until now, though, the certification process has not really been taken up by the restaurant industry. Today, however, comes the announcement that four progressive London restaurants — the Duke of Cambridge, Konstam, Moro and Moshi Moshi — are displaying the MSC's "eco-label" on their menus in a bid to highlight the sustainably caught options coming out of their kitchens.

It's a small step — a drop in the ocean, in fact — but where these four restaurants lead, it is hoped that others will follow. All of the venues concerned have been through a year-long process of reviews, assessment and mountains of paperwork to ensure 100 per cent traceability. You can be rest assured that any dish on their menus with the big blue tick gets a big green thumbs-up.

Where possible, the restaurants have been using sustainably sourced fish already, but they were keen to offer their customers complete transparency, thereby allowing them to make a totally informed choice. The goal they are working towards is to get all their fish from completely sustainable sources.

"Complete sustainability will be a slow process," says Geetie, "but it's something we have aspired to since we opened, so this certification is a great first step. It's of real benefit to small local fisheries, too, as it allows them to sell directly to restaurants that will pay them a fair price. It's also good for the customers, as they only need ask is this MSC?' On top of that, fish that is n o t produced always tastes much better!"

The restaurants' top picks from the current MSC menu a r e Alaskan salmon, fresh mackerel and Dover Sole from Hastings — not to mention herring from the Thames! Yorkshire seabass is likely to be next up for certification, followed by every gourmet's favourite, Scottish langoustines. Yet more exciting species will follow as the certification process gathers momentum.

"This is just the tip of the iceberg," agrees MSC spokesman James Simpson. "These guys are the pioneers, rather like the first restaurants to go organic. They're making a major statement and others are sure to follow suit."

Want to show your support? Here's where you can eat sustainably sourced fish in the capital

DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE
The pioneering Islington boozer was the world's first certified organic pub, and is more popular than ever as consumers wise up to the environmental issues that lie close to its heart. Its menus offer dishes such as MSC-certified smoked mackerel terrine with grilled muffin and red cabbage coleslaw (£7.75) or Dover sole with tartare sauce(£14.50). The Duke of Cambridge has just won the Soil Association's restaurant award.
Duke of Cambridge, 30 St Peter's Street, N1 (020 8986 5384)

KONSTAM AT THE PRINCE ALBERT
Oliver Rowe is well known for his extreme approach to sourcing produce for his King's Cross restaurant, Konstam at the Prince Albert, and sometimes even forages in London hedgerows for wild treats. A firm favourite dish is a starter of beer-battered roe from Thames-caught herrings (starters £5.50-£7 and mains £10.50-£15.50).
Konstam at the Prince Albert, 2 Acton St, WC1 (020 7833 5040)

MOSHI MOSHI
This conveyor-belt sushi chain has long put the environment at the top of its agenda. Moshi Moshi's top-selling salmon teriyaki (£11) is made from MSC-certified (non-air freighted) Alaskan wild salmon, while the salmon sashimi comes from Loch Duart, a small Scottish farm known for its firm stance on environmental and welfare issues.
Moshi Moshi, Unit 24, Liverpool St Station, EC2 (020 7247 3227)

MORO
Sam and Samantha Clark, the husband-and-wife team behind popular Clerkenwell staple Moro, have turned their culinary expertise to sustainable fish. With virtuous options such as MSC-certified mackerel escabeche or sea bass (line-caught by day-boat fishermen) with wilted escarole and piquillo peppers, being good has never felt so easy or delicious (£14.50-£19 for mains).
Moro, 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1 (020 7833 8336)