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M&S Manzanilla
M&S Manzanilla

The discerning drinker: Spanish wines of the week

Andrew Neather
16 Oct 2009


Charles Campion's choice of ham from Iberica is irresistible.

And as well as particularly good ham, the deli at this tapas bar and restaurant has the largest selection of Spanish charcuterie that I know of in London.

For me, the best accompaniment to these meats is sherry, but if you're tempted by other Spanish goodies — the cheeses, say — then you may want a bigger wine.

In the spirit of Iberica's uncompromisingly authentic regional selection, here are a few possibilities.

M&S Manzanilla (M&S, £5.99)
This sherry, made by the respected house of Williams and Humbert, is a perfect example of the subtle difference between manzanilla, made on the coast at Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and fino, made in Jerez. It's very light yet tangy and pungent, with a very slightly salty edge: very easy to drink more than you intended with good ham, which to my mind needs nothing else.

Viña S Somoza Classico 2007, Valdeorras (www.flintwines.com, £11.95: minimum order one case but you can mix cases. Either pick
up from their Kennington depot or £10/case delivery)

Godello, from the north-west, is one of Spain's trendier white grapes at present and this superb example shows why: vibrant, fresh, greengage fruit, yet with a satisfying weight to it too.

Sauló N Negre 2007, E Empordà
(www.flintwines.com, £7.95)

It might seem improbable to package tourists, but the Costa Brava has a wine industry in its northern hinterland. This garnacha/carineña blend is a typical red: it bursts with bright, concentrated, grapy fruit: sunshine in a bottle. Lovely.

La Legua R Roble 2007, Cigales
(Berry Brothers, 3 St James Street, SW1, or www.bbr.com, £7.75)

Cigales's reds enjoy a growing reputation. This predominantly tempranillo blend boasts masses of warm, rich, bright berry fruit here — very attractive.

Viña Herminia Crianza 2004, R Rioja (Waitrose, £9.49)
Just to show that there are Riojas made in a more modern, less oaky style too, here's a crianza that's ripe, soft, fragrant — easy drinking but with some weight and class. From the excellent 2004 vintage, one of the three or four best in Rioja of the past 25 years.

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