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Mexican, schmexican. To judge by the eddies in the blog- and Twittersphere, the next London food trend is for Jewish nosh. The chic, bijou and recently-opened Deli West One is already drawing crowds to Marylebone, and is serving up salt-beef, smoked salmon, pickles and slaw for supper as well as lunch.
Twitter is abuzz with excitement over the appearance in December of London's first kosher pop-up restaurant, Kosher Roast, in Kensal Rise. But what really sets the seal on the resurgence of Jewish food in the capital is the opening in Covent Garden's Catherine Sreet tomorrow of Russell Norman's fifth restaurant, Mishkin's.
Norman is the man who ignited hitherto unknown cravings in London stomachs for Venetian Cicchetti (small dishes) at the insanely popular Polpo and New York sliders (small hamburgers) at the hectically cool Spuntino. When Norman does something new, the wise man takes note. "All my restaurants start from the same question: what do I fancy eating?" says Norman. "With Mishkin's I thought of the food I eat when I need cheering up, and it's nearly always Jewish food: matzo-ball chicken soup, pastrami on rye, a Reuben sandwich. It's food that is immensely comforting, that makes you smile."
Norman says he never tries to second-guess public taste or food fads, but "there seems to be a lot of interest in Jewish food in the zeitgeist just as we are opening". This may be down to the economics of simple pleasures. In these protractedly straitened times, Jewish food ("the original austerity cuisine," says Norman) offers uncomplicated calorific solace and is good value. A salt-beef sandwich at Deli West One is £8.50, or £10 if you add a "schmear" of chopped liver. Few dishes at Mishkin's will break the £10 mark.
Deli West One was set up by two Americans and two Brits who felt the dearth of a decent New York-style deli in London. Norman makes approving mention of the salt-beef at Brass Rail in Selfridges, but says he designed Mishkin's as much in homage to London's disappearing Art Deco caffs as to places like Bloom's. His is a Jewish deli "with a twist". And with cocktails. And with an individual meatloaf that comes with a soft-boiled egg inside. Yum.
Unlike deli West One, but like many a New York deli, Mishkin's isn't kosher. Which means Amy Bellin won't be going. The 33-year-old executive assistant for a community centre is "a massive foodie who keeps kosher and loves meat, and who spent two years complaining about the lack of a kosher Sunday roast in London before realising I could do it myself".
She's serving English roast beef and veggies, Jewish style, at her sold-out Kosher Roast pop-ups on December 4 and 11 at The Shop on NW10's Chamberlayne Road, and confides that she's found a way to make a kosher Scotch Egg.
The sudden re-flowering of London restaurants serving Jewish food may be accompanied, it seems, by individuals taking the trend in the other direction. Bellin is already planning her next extravaganza: "Maybe a kosher fry-up?"
mishkins.co.uk
thedelilondon.com
kosherroast.co.uk
Reader views (9)
I agree with SeaBee; American Corporate Cheese is pretty bad, HOWEVER....small local US craft cheeses rival anything in the EU baby!!!!!!!!!!!!
English Stilton rocks...
- Vik Tokyo, San Jose CA, 01/12/2011 08:58
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A Reuben sandwich isn't "Jewish food" it is an American invention designed to make American cheese palatable.
- SeaBee, London, UK, 27/11/2011 16:14
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Holy moly, it's come to something when £10 for a sandwich is considered reasonable. I'll stick to Beigel Bake for my salt beef I think. Must try Gaby's though lest it disappear. I hope it gets its reprieve.
- Ruth, London, UK, 25/11/2011 14:00
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Annoyingly, I did write about Gaby's (again) and the threat it is facing in this piece, but that portion was cut
- Nick Curtis, London Evening Standard, 25/11/2011 13:42
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I can tell you as a Londoner a Jewish Londoner at that compared to New York and most other states in America Jewish Nosh here sucks, it lacks flavour offers per value per serving and is generally at least twice if not three times the price. Once youve tried the Stage, Mill Basin and Katz and Carnegie Delis in New York then you will know what i'm talking about. It's a great pity but anyone with a good old fashioned grandmother (Booba) will tell you the same. Now Turkish and Greek food in London AMAZING value great taste and a huge choice of some excellent local restaurants.
- Rob Jackson, London, 25/11/2011 12:22
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What about Gaby's in Charing Cross road? It's not kosher either but it is Israeli and heimische and at least you won't get pork hotdogs or smoked eel - both on the menu at Mischkins. Plus it's astonishingly inexpensive and right next to all the theatres.
And now under threat because the Landlord, the Marquess of Salisbury, wants to close it down and install some huge clone, chain eaterie in its place.
There's a Save Gabys Deli on facebook, twitter and a gopetition (and Xmas cards to send to the Marquess too)
- sara nathan, acton london, 24/11/2011 23:07
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Gaby's? Gaby's Deli in Charing Cross Rd does the best salt beef in town, arguably the best falafel too. their array of salads is unrivalled in London. How did you miss out Gaby's. Oh, and btw this traditional London institution is threatened with closure by their landlords. Are you going to champion these new places and just ignore Gaby's?
- Randal Smith, London, 24/11/2011 21:46
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Nick
A golden opportunity missed to mention GABY's again and the campaign (I know you are sympathetic). Last week a man had his hundredth birthday party there. Please, Standard, Save our Shops and Save Gaby's.
- Matthew, London, 24/11/2011 21:42
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I still miss The Nosherie in Hatton Garden; such charming ladies serving such wonderful food. Nice to see good kosher food returning to London.
- Will, Bristol, England, 24/11/2011 16:02
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