Discerning drinker: red giants

Alcohol isn't the whole story here, but it's part of it - and it remains a contentious issue.

Alcohol levels in wine have been rising steadily. In the New World, many reds are now well over 14 per cent. In California especially - but even in France these days, in warmer years - wines over 15 per cent are not uncommon. Climate change has often been blamed, although a big US study last year suggested that almost all the rise is down to winemakers, notably later picking of riper grapes.

In Europe especially, some consumers and critics are increasingly rude about such wines. But it's a question of balance. There are many reds with 14.5 per cent alcohol where the alcohol, fruit and structure are in balance: they taste big, but the alcohol doesn't get in the way of the other elements.

Conversely there are less-potent but lazily made wines where the alcohol pulls the wine out of shape. And I do think there tend to be problems once you get past 15 per cent alcohol.

Luckily all the following, both more and less strong, have enough body to warm you in this bleak season.

Château d'Or et de Gueules "Les Cimels" 2009, Costières de Nîmes (The Real Wine Company, mail order only from therealwineco.co.uk, £8.99. You can mix cases. Delivery £6.99)

A big Languedoc blend of syrah, carignan and grenache: sweet fruit underpinned with fine tannins, nicely balanced (13.5 per cent alcohol).

Bodegas Palacio "Glorioso" Rioja Crianza 2007 (Wine Society, mail order only from thewinesociety.com, £8.50)

A notably supple and velvety Rioja, modern and accessible but well balanced. Good value (13 per cent).

Beronia Tempranillo Rioja 2009 (mail order only from Ocado.com or waitrosewine.com, from £10.91)

Unusually, this is made from 100 per cent tempranillo rather than blended. Rich and smooth, with lashings of American oak, it's undemanding but hard to resist (14 per cent).

Domaine Sainte Anne 2001, Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Saint-Gervais (Wine Society, £11.50)

This wonderfully mature Côtes-du-Rhône is from one of the handful of named villages on the left bank of the river. Unusually, it is made from majority mourvèdre grapes from old vines, and it shows in the big, sweet, concentrated fruit here (13.5 per cent).

Wirra Wirra Church Block 2009, McLaren Vale (Waitrose, Co-op, £11.99)

A justly well-known cabernet sauvignon/shiraz/merlot blend from a leading McLaren Vale producer: rich and smooth but with attractive spice and acidity too (14.5 per cent).

Twitter: @hernehillandy