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Bags of talent: meet the accessorisers of the future
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17 September 2009
These pocket geniuses are aiming high with their accessories...
The next Bill Amberg
It all started because I needed a good laptop bag,' explains Harris Elliott, 30, designer of new luxury label H by Harris. 'I was disappointed with the lack of stylish laptop cases, so I made one myself and things kind of snowballed.
My designs went into production and are now selling fast.'
Initially, Harris wanted to become an architect, 'until I found out how long it takes to be one,' so he opted for interior design at Teesside University in Middlesbrough instead. He then worked as a stylist for Mark Ronson, Nelly Furtado, Eva Green and Scarlett Johansson. For London Fashion Week, Harris has designed a window display and installation for Browns.
How did you become a designer?
I have a good relationship with Browns from my days as a stylist, so after I designed a few bags I showed them to their buyers - they loved them.
Where do you get your inspiration?
From anything really. A lot of my collection is heavily based on military, a kind of luxurious army fatigue. It's my take on camouflage.
What are your dreams for the future of the label?
I want it to become a global brand that people love and respect.
H by Harris bags are stocked at Browns and Dover Street Market
The next Stephen Webster
Dominic Jones, 24, studied jewellery design at the Sir John Cass Department of Art, Media & Design, but dropped out before his final year. 'The teachers tried to push me in a way I wasn't interested in.
I didn't see the point,' he says. He started designing his first collection last year in his bedroom but funds ran out. Fortunately, his friend Alice Dellal stepped in and offered to back him (as well as star in his first campaign with Lizzie Jagger and ES cover girl Eliza Cummings). The pair met at a party four years ago.
'Alice is very involved in the business. She's on the other end of the phone about four times a week and sits in on all major meetings.' From October, his jewellery will be stocked at Selfridges and Browns.
Why jewellery?
There are so many boundaries to be broken. There aren't many brands that are really pushing it so there is lots of scope to be different.
Who do you design for?
I want my jewellery to be for my generation, I don't think anybody really designs jewellery for my age group. Having said that, my 80-year-old grandma loves my pieces.
Describe your style.
People call it Gothic, but I don't think that does it justice. There is a certain punk sensibility to it, but it's also quite elegant and feminine.
Where do you find inspiration?
My main reference point for this collection was natural defences, like claws and thorns. Femininity in nature is quite aggressive, whereas in humans women are delicate creatures. If you look at claws out of context, they have an elegant feminine flow and I wanted to reflect that.
During London Fashion Week, Dominic's work will be on show at Somerset House (londonfashionweek.co.uk)
The next Tamara Mellon
Shoe designer Sophie Gittins, 25, remembers her first pair of heels fondly. 'I was 12 and went to a school party wearing my mother's cream leather wedding shoes from Bally,' she says.
Sophie obtained a degree in design from the London College of Fashion in 2007 before working with Jennefer Osterhoudt (former head of accessories at John Galliano, Givenchy and Alexander McQueen). 'Then I took a year out to do business courses because I wanted to know exactly what was required to run a company.'
In 2008 she was a Fashion Fringe finalist, where she met her idol Manolo Blahnik. 'His advice was to push the boundaries, so I went with slightly unusual shapes.'
I can wear heels day in, day out. That's probably why I had no apprehension about doing a collection with just heels, although I'm hoping to design a flats range.
Who would you like to see wearing your shoes?
Thandie Newton - she's like a chameleon: very soft and feminine but with a modern edge. I admire her ability to flip between styles.
What inspires you?
An arts movement from the early 1900s called the Wiener Werkst‰tte (the Vienna Workshop). Their chairs gave me inspiration for my silhouettes.
What are your dreams?
I'd love to be stocked in Liberty. I've been obsessed with that shop since I was small.
Sophie's A/W 2009 collection is available at ninaandlola.com
The next Stephen Jones
Camille Roman, 25, got a taste for fashion as a child, following her parents around flea markets, where she picked up items for her dressing-up box. 'I started drawing costumes for a troupe of imaginary ice-skaters. Then I realised there's a career for me in this.'
Camille studied womenswear at Central Saint Martins, before working in China making accessories for Topshop in 2006. Back in London, she worked for Johnny Loves Rosie and Lulu Guinness, and in October 2008 she set up Tour de Force, her womenswear and accessories label, which is notable for its eye-catching headpieces.
No, I definitely don't design for myself. My vision is of someone else looking incredible in them.
Who would you like to see wear your pieces?
Lady Gaga; I'm a huge fan. Her people called in some samples the other day, but I don't know if she's worn them yet.
What has been your career highlight?
Having a headpiece in Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones at the V&A earlier this year. I thought I was going to be in a separate up-and-coming section but I was right in the middle which was really flattering.
What was your inspiration for this hat?
The whole collection was themed around Alfred Hitchcock's The Birds. I tried to create a feeling of elegance and vulnerability.
What are your dreams for the future?
I would like to have a studio that operates more like a community than a hierarchy.
During London Fashion Week, Tour de Force will be exhibiting a range of pieces at the On/Off exhibition (onoff.tv)
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