Signs of sartorial change in the City

I became a journalist by accident, not design. Granted, I studied English Lit, but my first job after graduation was in the pest control department of Hammersmith and Fulham council, taking calls from irate Londoners with cockroaches.

When a man threatened to kill me if I didn't send someone round to silence his neighbour's dog, I figured it was probably time for a career change.

"What do you want to do?" my friends would ask. "Anything," I'd reply, "so long as I never have to wear a suit."

Happily, fate contrived to let me spend the intervening years dressed in the sort of bonkers garb that only the fashion industry would concede was suitable attire for a day job, as opposed to, say, a circus.

Gallery: Suits in the City

I know nothing about suits, or the nuances of suit-dom, but have long been fascinated by that other world, the City.

In appearance as well as spirit, the world of high finance is the world of high fashion's polar opposite. How impenetrable it has always seemed.

I wondered: has the recession affected City dress codes? How much harder is it for women than men to dress the part? And — dear Lord — can it really be true that five-inch Louboutin platforms are unacceptable?

After speaking to some stalwart City workers — all of whom spoke on condition of anonymity — here are some of the most interesting things I learned about life in the Square (very square) Mile. They might surprise you. They might depress you. All I can say is: thank God I was never any good at maths.

"Even before the recession, City workers had stopped wearing suits all the time. Rolled-up sleeves and open necks have become much more common. I'm not sure if the recession has anything to do with this or if it's just that people are becoming more relaxed."

"Men have it easy. Suit, trousers and a shirt — done. I think men who try to look trendy in the workplace — with shirts too fitted or trousers too skinny — come across quite badly in the same way that women who are too trendy do, too. You look like a part-timer, not to be taken too seriously."

"Anyone with any style' finds themselves wearing Reiss. It's a given."

"I often find myself wearing old stuff that isn't cool at all; just anything I can find that's clean, because it's so difficult to pick something that's not too inappropriate for the office, and you tend to think Oh, f*** it — it's just work.' So yes — style does get compromised in a way that it would never outside work."

"Low necklines are always a no-no. Same goes for sheer blouses. Guys will always perv on any pair of breasts. You have to be careful to avoid the What gig is it this time?' comments — it makes people think you will be out on the piss later and they'll assume your work will be affected the next day."

"Because the women all wear suits,designer bags become important as signifiers of disposable income and personal style."

"To show individual style in the office, you need confidence in your ability in your job. It's difficult for women to be taken seriously if they show too much girly passion for fashion. It makes you seem like an airhead."

With thanks to Karen Dacre, Emily Lanfear, Robert Ackland and Emma Falconer. All photographs by Seamus Ryan.

Gallery: Suits in the City