Sophisticated Wintle's grown-up menswear

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The closing day was devoted to menswear and in the courtyard of Somerset House there were signs that the sun was breaking through the clouds that have been hanging over British fashion. It has been faced with a conundrum for too long: should it sell itself on tradition and craftsmanship or celebrate the capital's reputation as a crucible of creativity and enfants terribles? Wintle's restrained collection was proof that London menswear is capable of taking on Milan and Paris.

His palette was a sophisticated mix of pearl greys, off-whites and viridian greens.

Jackets were cut bum-freezer short, while peak lapels were exaggerated. Pale shirts were worn with matching ties under round-neck sweaters for a post-Lehman Bros world and his take on the chalk-stripe suit owed more to Gatsby's West Egg than Gecko's Wall Street.

London has proved it can run the gamut from Hardy Amies to Hoxton, but Wintle showed he can provide what has been missing — grown-up menswear for men who know that true style is timeless.

Robert Johnston is associate editor of GQ.