Going Gaga for 3D nails

On the ends of my fingers were 1.5in 3D nails — the latest development in nail art, as seen on the digits of fashion- forward Japanese girls — complete with pop-up flowers, jewels and, of course, Hello Kitty motifs.

Only once I was inside a ladies' loo cubicle did I realise navigating the button on my trousers was going to be an altogether more frustrating problem.

But if I want to be on trend this season, I will have to get used to it, because following the fads for Minx nails, transfers and two-tone tips, 3D nails have hit the London streets — and they're not easy to wear.

It all started on Tokyo's Harajuku scene (think Gwen Stefani's female entourage in 2004), where the cutting-edge young people hang out and display their outlandish styles, and with the Japanese Gyaru, meaning "gals", who dye their hair blonde and adopt a California-girl image.

The nails are often very long — extended using acrylic tips — and then built up in layers using gels, glitters and acrylic pastes to create any design imaginable (or even unimaginable). At London's Nailympics at Kensington Olympia last month, girls had talons with figurines, flowers and fairies attached.

On the street the designs are only marginally toned down, and through New York's Valley salon, where M.I.A. and Katy Perry reportedly go for manicures, and via the nails of the world's most watched woman, Lady Gaga (she has been seen with jewelling and little bows on her nails), 3D nails came to London.

"The Japanese girls who come to get their nails done wear the whole Japanese style from head to toe," says Fiza Sabah, the woman who had enough patience to spend three hours carefully creating my elaborate set of nails.

"Girls who come in here wanting 3D nails are young but they know what they want. Most of them have seen Lady Gaga's nails. She's the most common person for people to follow."

But you won't find Fiza or other 3D-nail artists easily. You have to be in the know if you want to get the look.

"There are very few of us in London," says Chinese-born Ching Mazza, who was raised in Japan and now runs 3D Nails in the Camden Stables Market. "Only people who are really looking for me can find me and most of my customers come a long way to see me because they know I'm one of the few people who do it."

Because of demand, Fiza and her 3D nail-art expert colleague Jei Lin are opening a new salon at King's Cross next month.

"I can absolutely see this trend on the runway," says model turned fashion and beauty blogger Ruth Crilly, who first glimpsed the 3D nails trend at the start of the year and "rather rashly", she says, "shelved it away in the passing fad' category". She has since realised that it's here to stay.

"Fashion houses could use the models' nails almost as they would accessories, to complement their designs and add drama."

But, she warns: "For anyone old enough to have to tie their own shoelaces, these things would be an utter nightmare." Unfortunately I found that out too late.

* Fiza at L Square Hair and Nails, 2nd Floor, 34-36 Wardour Street, W1, and Pure Essentials Nails and Beauty (from November), 155 King's Cross Road, WC1, 07949 916 036.

* Ching at 3D Nails, 406 (basement) Camden Stables Market, NW1, 07813 465 779, 3dnails.co.uk