The discerning drinker: Spain's most exciting white wines

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Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Albariño 2009, Rías Baixas (£6.99)
Albariño's fame is such that the grape is now being planted elsewhere — in California, for instance — but it is a native of the cool, damp Atlantic province of Galicia. Albariño is fragrant, crisp and fruity, often with a very slight spritz to it. This one is good value — they're not the cheapest whites — with pleasing fresh citrus fruit and nice balance.

Brandal Albariño 2009, Rías Baixas (Wine Society, mail order only: thewinesociety.com, £8.95)
This albariño from a producer in the heart of the most important Val do Salnés sub-zone of Rías Baixas, close to the Atlantic coast, is a step up from the Sainsbury's version. Some complexity. with grapefruit and apple fruit and brisk acidity.

Zarate Albariño 2009, Rías Baixas(Harvey Nichols; Artisan and Vine, 126 St John's Hill, SW11; Bottle Apostle, 95 Lauriston Road, E9; Thorold Wines, 22 Ritherdon Road, SW17; from £14.99)
This is pricey but about as good as albariño gets. It's zippy and fresh but with fantastic minerality and complexity: a serious white that will last. Made from more-or-less organically grown grapes.

Viña Costeira 2009, Ribeiro (Waitrose, £7.99)
Ribeiro is the next area inland up the Miño river from Rías Baixas. This wine is made mostly from the local treixadura grape, with a bit of the other local standards — torrontés, albariño, godello and loureira. Sweet, juicy fruit but with a lovely freshness.

Gaba do Xil Godello 2009, Valdeorras (Wine Society, £8.95)
Valdeorras is further inland still, in the easternmost part of Galicia. Godello is the best of the local white grapes. This one is from the burgeoning empire of Telmo Rodriguez, Spain's most celebrated winemaker: juicy, ripe, trademark greengage fruit and pleasing acidity. Very good.