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The discerning drinker: The best Greek wines
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29 April 2010
British Eurosceptic nutters would, of course, like to blame the whole thing on the euro, but Greek government mismanagement is in fact a bit more straightforward than that.
In the overall scheme of things, the extra pain the crisis will bring to the Greek wine industry might seem relatively minor. But we should spare a thought for some of Europe's most determined and idiosyncratic wine producers. The range of Greek wines generally available in this country is not huge: apart from the excellent selection available by mail order from Vickbar wines (www.vickbarwines.co.uk), Waitrose has easily the biggest selection, many of them on offer at present.
Mediterra Sauvignon-Vilana 2009, Crete (Waitrose, £8.49 reduced to £5.59 until May 11). A blend of local and international grapes, this is fresh and juicy, full of crisp citrus fruit with floral notes. Good summer drinking.
Hatzidakis Assyrtiko 2008, Santorini (Waitrose, £9.99). Greece teems with indigenous grapes found nowhere else: assyrtiko is potentially the classiest of the whites. When grown under the almost impossibly dry conditions of the volcanic island of Santorini, it produces dry, fresh, intensely mineral wines like this one. Highly individual.
Skouras Rose 2009, Peloponnese (Waitrose, £9.99 reduced to £7.99 until May 11). This big, deeply coloured rose is a blend of the native white moschofilero and one of Greece's great red grapes, aghiorghitiko. Big and bold, its deep cherry flavours and solid tannins stand up to food well.
Mediterra Silenus Kappa Sigma red 2008, Crete (House of Fraser, 101 Victoria St, SW1, £8.49). Made 80 per cent from the local kotsifali grape and 20 per cent syrah, this boasts bright cherry fruit and refreshing acidity: would stand up well to tomato-based dishes.
Tsantali Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Halkidiki (Waitrose, reduced from £8.49 to £6.79 until May 11). This reliable red might not be the most typically Greek of wines, made entirely from cab in a fairly international style, but it's very tasty, soft and full of bright berry fruit with minty, herbal notes. Good value on offer.
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