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Tiny tycoons: the young Londoners bucking the recession
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27 August 2009
Meet the mini moguls using their business brains to buck the recession...
The next Solange Azagury-Partridge
As great-granddaughter of Harry Garrard, the crown jeweller who sold the business in 1946, Theodora Warre, 22, is looking to reunite her family with its sparkling heritage. 'I think he'd be turning in his grave if he knew what was happening now, but, you know, it's moving with the times. I love what creative director Stephen Webster's done there.'
Last year Dora spent three months in India working at the Jaipur Gem Palace, 'this insane Aladdin's Cave', and scouting for suppliers for her label, Theodora. She is recently back from a second trip when she had her new collection made up.
'When you're a girl in India, working on your own, you have to be headstrong. I try not to be too influenced by India because it's easy to get caught up in the ethnic thing, then you come back and everyone says, "Oh, that would look great on holiday but not in W1."'
What is your favourite stone?
Tourmaline. At the moment I'm only working with semi-precious stones: amethyst, onyx and rose quartz. Everything is under £100. Most of my orders are for simple gold hoops and cuffs.
What is your favourite item of jewellery?
A Jade Jagger ring from my mother.
Where would you like to be in five years' time?
I would like my jewellery label to be flourishing. Lots of my clients are friends of my mother, so I'd like my clientele to be a bit younger.
Felt on Cale Street, SW3, stocks Dora's latest collection (020 7349 8829; felt-london.com)
The next Mark Ronson
Music is in 23-year-old Archie Hamilton's blood. The DJ-producer's grandfather was a 'really amazing' pianist, and his mother was in a 1980s punk band, but tore up her contract with Decca records when it insisted the band be called Pam and the Paperclips. 'She was just a bit too punk I suppose.'
Before founding record label Furthur Project, Archie got a marketing degree from Oxford Brookes University. 'I wouldn't have had the playground to start DJing if I hadn't gone to university. I earned £350 a week playing at the Carling Oxford Academy.'
After graduating, Archie took a production course at Point Blank Music College in Hoxton, learning the basics of 'synthesizers and compression', and set up his label with a friend who provided the initial capital.
Archie took on the A&R and management duties for the 15-strong staff of promoters, producers and musicians. In his free time, he writes music on his laptop, and DJs in Shoreditch at T Bar, The Horse & Groom and Club Aquarium.
He divides his time between his mother's house in Maida Vale and his girlfriend's flat in Fulham. 'To keep things healthy, I live at both. I'm an only child, I like my space.'
Where would you most like to DJ?
Fabric, Panorama Bar in Berlin, and on the beach in Tel Aviv. I'm going to Ibiza on Friday. I'd love to play the Zoo Project there, too - a decommissioned zoo with decks in the seal pit.
What was the worst job you've done?
To make ends meet, I did removals. I once had to carry a sofa down four flights of stairs.
furthurproject.com
The next Grayson Perry
The collection was called The Chewing Gum Floors and featured her parents' photographs from the 1960s when they owned pubs and nightclubs in Forest Gate and Stratford. She will also be exhibiting at Liberty before the end of the year. 'I'm more interested in the surface of the ceramic than the shape. I'm using my own mixed glazes, some matt, some shiny, some with crystals in.'
She lives with her parents in Southend and makes pots in her bedroom. 'I'm going to approach the top galleries in town. I know Wedgwood went down last year but in my mind, the future's bright.'
Do you only do pots?
No, I do tiles, too. I stuck them up around Southend and between Fenchurch Street and Bank, guerrilla style. The ones in the City are still there.
Where do you see yourself in five years' time?
With my own shop, selling a larger range including tableware and ceramic jewellery. I did some brooches in my second year.
Who is your dream client?
I'd love to make a pot for Grayson Perry. A lot of people compare me to him which is flattering. He came to give us a lecture once wearing his massive Vivienne Westwood shoes. He works near Leytonstone, too, the area on which my pieces are based.
For commissions, call 07989 155 473
The next Elle Macpherson
For Marissa, 22, is the best-connected girl in lingerie: Bryan Adams shoots her campaigns; Alice Dellal and Lizzie Jagger front them; Rose Blake, the artist Peter's daughter, does her prints; and her boyfriend is Jamie Reuben, son of the property tycoon David.
The business started while she was still at Francis Holland School when she customised some knickers from Wal-Mart and 'from this weird, organic, higgledypiggledy mass it all came together'.
After graduating from Goldsmiths in English and drama last summer, she set up her company and Harvey Nichols and Selfridges have snapped up her new collection.
She also sells in Topshop on Oxford Street and in New York. Inspirations range from Alice in Wonderland to Chekhov. One new collection is called The Cat that Got the Cream, inspired by her own pet, Killer. 'It's naughty but nice, lots of cream lace and black silk.'
Last week she shot Margot Stilley wearing the range in her kitchen. Margot is one of the Pussy posse with model Tolula Adeyemi, Jenson Button's ex-girlfriend Flee Brudenell-Bruce and Anoushka Beckwith, Tamara's actress daughter. 'They are like the Victoria's Secret Angels [Gisele, Tyra, Heidi...] but more talented.'
Where would you like to be in five years' time?
Owning a complete lifestyle brand like Juicy Couture with a swimwear and bridal range.
Who are your idols?
Tamara Mellon, Vivienne Westwood, my mum and Elle Macpherson. Independent women who have made it for themselves.
pussyglamore.co.uk
The next Luke Johnson
'I went to auctions, had a few traders, but I got out at a good point before it all started to tumble last year.'
At the end of 2008 a shop came up in his native Southgate, N14, and he decided to set up the Crepe Café, selling crêpes, juices and milkshakes with flavours such as Ferrero Rocher and Snickers. His father was in retail for 40 years, with restaurants in the West End and a chain of shoe shops, but the only advice he gives his son is on things like signage. Robert's sister is a lawyer: 'She got the brains.'
He gets his best tips from Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares. 'I just ask myself what would Gordon do if he came in here.' Robert's second shop in Whetstone, N20, is now open and with an enquiry from Heathrow airport, he's considering a franchise. 'I'd like 20 outlets eventually - places like Bournemouth and Brighton would work.'
Why crêpes?
Everyone's used to takeaway crêpes and milkshakes but I found people like to eat in.
What was the worst job you've ever done?
I sold phones for Orange in the six months between the cars and the shop. It was hard because when you are your own boss, you don't have to ask anyone if you want to go on holiday.
How do you choose your staff?
People who go the extra mile. I took on a guy because he asked if he could come in and train for a night, unpaid. I thought, 'Here's someone who uses his brain.' At the start it was a bit strange having people ten years older than me working for me. I still get asked for ID buying a lottery ticket.
Would you ever go on Dragons' Den?
No, I'd be afraid that with a big investment you'd flood the market. That said, Peter Jones is quite an inspiration to me. He's tough but he's fair.
thecrepecafe.co.uk
The next Alice Temperley
After toying with graphics at Central Saint Martins, she interned for Alice Temperley and then became a seamstress. With a loan, she set up Tephi (her sister's middle name), which means beautiful in Hebrew.
'To stand out, I offer a really personal service. People visit my little studio/boutique off Gloucester Road for fittings and alterations. I aim for high quality and timeless elegance that doesn't get thrown out every season.'
She is currently shuttling between Kensal Rise and Surrey to put the final touches to the new collection, Grace, inspired by Degas paintings with a few corsets stolen from the Romantics.
Francesca grew up in Reading. Her father works in property and her mother works for the Red Cross. 'Tephi has taken a slightly different route to what I thought. I saw it as a label for young people to wear on nights out, but I started the business when everyone was being far more careful with their money, and the age range is a lot wider than I thought it would be. I've already done bridesmaids' and wedding dresses. It took Alice Temperley several years to do that.'
Where do you see yourself in five years' time?
Set up in my own store in Notting Hill. I love the vibe and the people around there.
What was the worst job you've ever done?
Being a promotions girl and handing out deodorant samples outside the Odeon.
Who would you like to dress for the red carpet?
Scarlett Johansson. She's stylish, timeless, curvy. I really cater for a girl with a figure.
tephi.co.uk
Hair and make-up by Louise Dartford at Naked Artists using Dermalogica. Shot on location at the Southbank Centre (southbankcentre.co.uk).
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