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Meet the air-conditioned Marines at camp-do-nothing in Afganistan
Last updated at 09:37am on 29.10.06
Camp Bastion
When the Marines invited The Mail on Sunday to Afghanistan we expected to find poorly supplied troops under constant fire, fighting the Taliban. The truth is the exact opposite...
It is just after dusk and the searing desert sun has given way to a cooling breeze. About 2,500 Royal Marines have come to the end of another interminably long day at Camp Bastion, the British base in Afghanistan's notorious Helmand province and are busying themselves eating, taking showers, playing pool, watching television and sending e-mails home.
Many have settled into their comfy air-conditioned tents with a good book, while others work out in the fully-equipped gym.
There is just one thing the crack fighting troops are not doing much of these days - waging war on the Taliban.
For the Marines of the 42 Commando, it is the end of another frustrating day of non-action. As one young soldier told me: "It's like Groundhog Day over here.
"We are the Navy's crack fighting force and it's frustrating. We came here to fight but there's no action. We get up, eat, train, workout, eat some more and try to stay busy. What we really want to be doing is fighting."
I travelled to Camp Bastion last week to see, first hand, how one of the most controversial, and expensive, British military operations in history is being carried out.
While stories have abounded back home of vicious firefights in Helmand, a known Taliban hotbed, the reality is that since the Marines took over from the Parachute Regiment just over a month ago they have experienced little fighting.
Officially, a spokesman explained that the current inactivity was due to a 'lockdown' on patrols that had begun nine days before, after Marine Gary Wright was killed by a suicide bomber in Lashkar Gar, the provincial capital of Helmand, a ramshackle town 18 miles south-east of Camp Bastion.
Daily patrols in Lashkar Gar and in the town of Gereskh, 21 miles east of here have now been suspended 'until further notice'.
Lieutenant-Colonel Andy Price, the UK taskforce spokesman, claims military intelligence has revealed a 'serious' threat of more suicide bombers, making it 'simply too dangerous' for patrols.
He said: "We have suicide bombers walking around Lashkar Gar and Gereskh looking for us. The suicide threat is critical. There is no movement - no soldiers, no Afghan police or Afghan army.
"The Defence Secretary was at Camp Bastion a couple of days ago and even he wasn't allowed to go out on patrol. We are not here as invaders to kill the Taliban. We are here to provide security to the Afghan police and Army and to aid redevelopment. We are not going to take the fight to the Taliban in the mountains. Why should we? We are comfortable here and our very presence seems to be a deterrent."
Over in Sangin, the scene of fierce fighting earlier this summer, not a single shot has been fired in anger in 30 days. There has been some small arms fire in the village of Kajaki, but it was described as 'non significant'. There are 4,500 troops in Helmand, but the last 'significant' fighting against the Taliban took place on September 27, when the Marines went into Sangin to extract the remaining Paras.
The Marines, who are under orders not to seek out a fight with the Taliban and to fire only when fired upon or under direct threat, also blame the recent festival of Eid, which marks the end of the Muslim holy month of Ramadan, for the lack of action.
When I asked one officer to explain why we had thousands of troops sitting around at taxpayers' expense, he said wearily: "You have to understand that we did not come here to wage war against the Taliban.
"We are here to provide safety to the Afghan people and to allow development and restructuring.
"Our orders are not to go out looking for a fight. We are Marines, not politicians. If you want to know why that is the policy, you will have to ask Tony Blair. We have men all over Helmand and in many cases, their presence alone is enough to ward off attacks.
"None of us know if this period of quiet is because of the holiday, because it is poppy-planting season or because we are not visibly out there for them to shoot at us.
"It would be wrong to say the fight is over because, to be honest, we just don't know. It could all kick off again next week, for all we know."
Even the commanding officer of 42 Company, Lieutenant-Colonel Matt Holmes admits the situation is 'quiet'. He said: "My men trained long and hard before coming to Afghanistan and they were keen to get out here and get to work. Our priority is to provide security for the Afghan people and to promote restructuring and development. We are here to facilitate the Afghan army and police taking control of their country.
"There is not necessarily a military solution for Afghanistan's problems. This is a political situation where the local population has to be able to see the Taliban for what they are. If they want a fight, they'll get a fight and they'll lose."
At Camp Bastion, a sprawling eight-square-mile encampment in the middle of the southern Afghan desert, 18 miles from the nearest town, the only sound of gunfire is the crackle of British machine guns training on the range, sometimes drowned out by the roar of a Chinook helicopter taking supplies to men dotted in remote outposts in the north of Helmand.
I reach the base after a seven-hour flight to Kabul from RAF Brize Norton in Oxfordshire in an aging Tristar troop carrier - delayed for nearly two hours because of a brake failure - followed by a noisy 90-minute ride in a Hercules.
Lieutenant Paul Youngman, 47, the Marine's education officer greeted me with a grin: "Welcome to the holiday camp from hell."
The camp, which has never come under fire, is the largest British base ever built, including during the Second World War. Scores of giant tents, housing eight to ten men each, are swathed in camouflage netting, with more netting draped across outdoor seating areas to provide shade.
It has its own 25-bed medical tent, cookhouse, gym and a makeshift running track around the perimeter. A NAAFI shop sells such basic goods as sweets, magazines and toiletries along with 'luxury' items such as iPods, Pamela Anderson posters and even a Bose stereo system for more than £1,000. One Marine said: "We have nothing to spend our money on here, so even though the recruits don't earn much, they're all going to end up saving a ton of dough during the six months here.
"We've also been given a £2,240 bonus for being on the front line so most lads are happy, apart from the boredom.
"They try to keep us busy and occupied, but there's a lot of time to kill. Everyone has an excellent suntan."
The site was chosen because of its remote location devoid of Taliban or Al Qaeda fighters and because it is next to an Afghan army base, ominously named Camp Tombstone. The British arrived in force in February, and finished building the base in June.
Troops have to carry their regulation SA80 Mark II semi-automatic rifles at all times but they remain unloaded, with bullets carried separately. And the Marines, more used to fighting on water, are about 450 miles from the nearest ocean.
While the Paras complained of lack of supplies and poor food, the Marines live in relative luxury, with air-conditioning, hot showers, proper flushable toilets, 20 minutes of internet access a day and a free 30-minute phone call home each week. A recreation room boasts a pool table and most offices have large-screen TVs and radios.
The only discomfort is the desert sand which coats everything with a fine layer of white dust and the temperatures, which reach 30C during the day but plunge to near freezing at night.
Lt Youngman said: "I was in the Falklands and Iraq and this is by far the most luxurious accommodation we've ever had. We're getting three excellent meals a day, the lads are in constant contact with their families back home and so far we have been lucky with the fighting, or lack of it. It's important to keep morale up, and morale is good.
"The Paras who had supply problems were in the outposts. We have lads out there now but the supply problems have been solved."
He proudly shows me his quarters - a bed complete with Union flag duvet and mosquito netting (although there are none of the insects here), clean uniforms washed at the base's laundry and even an Afghan rug.
"You could almost forget you're at the front line,' he adds. "The goal is to make things as easy on the lads as possible. We've trying to make this a home away from home, but for some men it's probably better than home. They don't have to worry about anything. Everything, from toilet paper on, is provided for them.
"There is an old saying that war is 99 per cent boredom followed by one per cent sheer terror."
Nowhere, it seems, is that more true than at Camp Bastion.
Young marines, delighted to see a woman, grumble about the queues for dinner and ban on alcohol, but agree that the food, which includes roast beef, curry, turkey breast and choice of roast potatoes, mash or chips together with a full English fry-up breakfast, is as good, if not better, than they enjoy back home.
They are anxious for 'contact' with the enemy. One Marine tells me: "We came here to fight and that's what we want to do."
Each has been issued with three desert-battle uniforms. Many have chosen to buy their own boots but not, they say, because of the quality of military issue ones. Corporal Paul Butler, 29, from Brighton said: "A lot of the lads buy their own because of fashion. We heard stories the boots were no good, but I wear them and they are fine. We're being given too much kit. We're given T-shirts on what seems like a daily basis. We've got all the kit we need."
While the Marines are barred from growing beards, many of the men of 3 Commando Brigade - the overall name of the troops at Camp Bastion from 42 and 45 Marine Commandos, Navy, Army and RAF pilots, Army engineers and bomb disposal squads - sport full facial hair. Lt Youngman explained: "The guys in the outposts grow them to conserve water and because beards are a sign of respect among local Afghan elders. But with a lot of the lads it's just a fashion statement."
The Marines keep up their spirits with banter, often about the Taliban, who they have nicknamed the "Tali-Tubbies'. They are all clearly anxious to 'do their job'.
Lt Youngman said: "The Marines are the best there is. They will do their job and fight like warriors. No one knows what will happen or when the Taliban will attack. It may seem quiet now but all that could change in hours, if not minutes."
There are only a handful of women on the base. I share a tent with one of them, Captain Mags Barron, a 26-year-old bomb disposal expert based in Catterick.
She says: "There aren't many women on the front line, but the guys treat you very well. I share a small shower unit and have to knock to make sure there are no men inside, but the conditions are good.
"The guys tend to walk to the shower with towels around their waist, but they have been known to drop them when a woman is around. I managed to purloin a mattress for my bed and I've even got my favourite skincare products. There are no hardships at Camp Bastion apart from being away from our families, but that's what we signed up for. This base is 100 per cent safe."
Locals are employed for about £3.50 a day to do menial jobs such as cleaning the toilets. One of their co-ordinators told me: "They go through a tough screening process but we have a high turnover. The money doesn't sound much, but it's a fortune to them. By working here they are placing themselves and their families in grave danger. Two of our workers were kidnapped on their way back to their village and beheaded a few weeks ago."
At the field hospital, Surgeon Commander Rob Ross, 44, shows me his two wards and state-of-the-art operating theatre. There are no British war casualties here. One Marine, who we are told we cannot name or photograph, was admitted a few days ago after a vehicle accident, and two Afghan policemen are undergoing rehab treatment for gunshot wounds to the legs. The only patient in intensive care is a young Afghan boy, critically burned after a pot of boiling water fell on him, who was brought in by his father in a wheelbarrow.
Apart from the uniforms, it is easy to forget this is the British front line in one of the most dangerous and inhospitable places on Earth. Men play football and lounge around smoking cigarettes.
Yesterday morning, the Marines busied themselves with a parade celebrating their 342nd anniversary.
And later in the day the Marines resumed restricted patrols at Lashkar Gar. Major John Scott said: "We are still in lockdown and normal patrolling is not taking place.
"However, we had a security patrol go out today with the permission of the commanding officer. We are still avoiding populated areas because of the threat of suicide bombers."
I met RAF Military Police dog handler Sergeant Phil Rodd and his eight-year-old springer spaniel Monty, trained to sniff out explosives. They have been at Camp Bastion for four months as part of a 20-dog team. Both have been under fire 'several times' and Monty found a stash of hand grenades at a compound in northern Helmand.
As Monty rolls over for a pat on the tummy, Sgt Rodd says proudly: "He was cool under fire, it was just another normal day. He's a favourite with the lads and gets spoiled rotten. We've got tinned dog food but he always gets given treats."
But the brutal reality of Camp Bastion is brought into focus when I walk past a simple stone memorial, with a brass plaque and cross made out of spent 30mm shells, which lists the names of 17 servicemen killed in Helmand this year.
Marine Gary Wright's name has yet to be added to the plaque, which sadly has space for many more names.
As Lt Youngman says: "This is the quiet before the storm. If it stays calm, fine. If it doesn't, we are ready."
Reader views (28)
My husband is currently serving his first tour at Camp Bastion and quite honestly, I'm more than ready for him to come home. He's been there for 7 months. I never read, watch, or listen to the news and this is the first time. I'm praying for all of the families that are going through this as well as every service member. Thanks for everything that you do. Sincerely, A Proud Marine's Wife!
- Ashleigh, South Carolina
to all serving in the military, THANKS FOR YOUR SERVICE....be safe and may GOD BLESS YOU AND KEEP YOU SAFE.
richard turley former MARINE (1977-1981)
- Richard N Turley, kimberly,alabama united states
My son is in the USMC, at Camp BAstion and he is far from living in luxury. It's more like a hell hole. You need to get your facts straight.
Noreen - New York,
- Noreen, highland mills
I did 7 months int he capital Kabul...I lived in former drug baron palaces and walked to work on Eggers and ISAF...We had all of the amenities they have in Bastion but these creature features were a necessity.
The media put a spin on it like Helmand still isn't the hotbed and our fighting forces, US or otherwise, are waning of the conflict.
You see? How do you win? First, they sensationalize the soldiers fighting and then when the public grows conscious of this glorification they undermine the counsciousnes by downplaying what they once glorified.
- Staff Seargent B, Bronx, NY
Hi Guys,
Some wars have to be won because it is right that all people have the right to be responsible for their own moral future as in Afghanistan.
The Taliban will not win with this oppressive hypocritical regime some things have to be surgically removed.you are doing a good job for the world,It will not be the last.
On another subject Death I personally have died 3 times and I can assure you, you cannot die,i can tell you what it is like to die second by second ,inch by inch as you leave your physical body and the certainty that you are leaving this life,I have seen the other side and have been literally thrown back and told "its not your time yet" it is the same for all of us better if you are moral and responsible.We are doing a job for freedom for all mankind it is our right.
I wish you courage in action and a keen awareness of all details.
Good luck.
Mark.
- Mark, lancs.uk
My huband is currently in the United States Marine Corps and next year he will have served 20 yrs in. He is at Camp Bastian. My husband has been deployed to Iraq 2 times and once to Afghanistan in the last 5 yrs. He has not always seen down time. He has witnessed death and has had that heart aching feeling of the unknown. I pray for peace in that country and peace here in the US. Unfortunately at some point in our military's lives, they will be in the line of fire. It is sad to know that we wish for fire, we wish for gun fight, that we wish for death. Downtime, is simply a blessing from God for all military. Downtime is simply a temporary calm before the storm.
- Sam, Yuma, AZ USA
GOD BLESS THE TROOPS (US, UK and all the others).....
Endless thanks to all of them and their families for their service and sacrifices...
From a Proud USMC Mom
- Karen, Massachusetts, USA
To all service members serving in Helmand province,wether you are Brtish or american ,i salute all of you warriors and want each of you to know most of us here stateside especialy ex service members as myself only wish we could also be ther with you to carry the fight to the enemy with you.Your service and sacrifice do matter to us ,and what you do over there matters greatly God bless each of you and remember our hearts are with all of you,simper fi.
- Richard Wright, Houston Texas.
My husband (USMC) is there also and is not living "the high life"! Good for you if the living conditions are so wonderful, but it's not like that for all the base. But does all of that really matter? The big picture is that all of these men and women do their jobs and come home safely to us at home! SEMPER FIDELIS!
- Casey, Havelock, NC USA
This person has apperantly never been in comabt and has absoutley no idea what US MARINES do. We are an adaptable fighting force, we dont just fight in the ocean or the shore line we can fight anywhere in the world at any time. Apperantly you dot know nothing about the military so why are you even writing an article about it. You should just quit your job and search for a new one oh and while you're at it try to be a little more supportive to the men and woman who protect your freedom and appreciate what they do for your country.
- Paul C, USA
This person can not claim to be in support of any US or UK milarary member.
A complete insult to all serving in any hostile enviroment, and to all those that support.
Where is their name and position???
- Ebba, England
My US Marine is there too and he's not talking about country club conditions.
And if the Royal Marines have a different situation, so be it.
All those kids - British and American - are ready, willing and able. Don't forget they don't make policy they are trained to follow orders.
- Rita, Atlanta, GA USA
if my son writes and asks for thing such as salt and pepper, cleaning supplies.this clown that wrote this article needs to pay the US MARINE CAMP a visit.
- Maggie Velasquez, houston,texas
The Royal Marines are definitely living a different life from the US soldiers over there. The stories I am hearing are 14 hour work days. Could it be the US are Britains slaves? Bring our guys home and let them do the work!
- Rosa, VA BCH VA
No matter how you dress the camp - up or down - the fact is they are away from their families and no amount of "home comforts" can help the situation.
HATS OFF TO THE LADS/LASS' OUT THERE! XX thinking of you XX
- Becci, Redditch, Worcestershire,ENGLAND - UK
This article truely makes me sick!!!! My husband is at Camp Bastion right now and to here that the Royal Marines think of this base as totally safe and they are so relaxed with TV, air conditioning, hot showers and working bathrooms is appalling. My husband is a US Marine, and from the stories i have heard and pictures i have seen they dont have it as easy as the Royal Marines. All the guys i know over there are working 14-16 hours a day, miss meals cause they are so busy, and are sleep deprived. This guy who wrote the article clearly doesnt see the whole picture on what is actually going on at that camp. Its good to know that right know are guys are safe but they can easily be attacked any day. So as for him saying that it is a relaxing calm base he is totally WRONG!!!!! I would like to see him try and survive a 6-7 month deployment. I dont know why they even let him write this article he clearly has no idea what our guys are really doing over there. Just because the Royal Marines have it easy doesnt mean that everyone else does!!!! He needs to go back and do a complete tour of the whole base and see how are guys are living and what they are doing. I dont think he would last 1 day in the shoes of a US Marine. He is a joke!!!!
- Amanda L., Hawaii, USA
my son is one of the civilian air conditioning engineers out there ,please dont forget the civis who are out there unarmed...
- Ruth Hill, worksop uk
I watched Christmas in the Frontline.... i had to watch it several times, until this, i hadnt really understood why we were in Afganistan, now i understand, we are there to help the people of Afganistan protect themselves from the evil doers that this world has. I felt very humbled by what i saw..... KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!! you are all wonderful people, you have made me realise how lucky i am sat here, at home, in the warm and Im safe, thanks to our forces. Happy New Year !!
- Dawn Guthrie, Ripley England
Your article may reflect that Camp Bastion is a quiet haven, thank god for that. Gives troops respite from the hell that is Afghanistan and trust me they need it.
I completely disagree with the comments from the young Officer in your article. "You could almost forget you're at the front line,' Definately a comment for the press. This statement couldn't be further from the truth. Coming back from substained firefights to have a rest, you can hardly forget about that.
Also, my partner is a nurse with the Navy currently serving in Bastion trying to put people back together, both civilian and military. Working 14 hours a day seven days a week is hardly a holiday camp. It is not only used for recouperation, it plays a vital role in the rehabilitation and treatment for anyone injured.
You must be well aware of the recent spate of 42 RM casualties and deaths. My partner has to deal with this as well as the other guys out in the field. Try and show a modicom of true reporting rather than feeding people with a glossy story.
- Anton De-Vickers, Colchester, UK
Shame on you for saying these brave lads have it so easy!
These brave men put their life on the line every day they are out there.
I have a son in the marines and am very very proud of him!
- Sandie, plymouth
my son is serving in afghanistan with the marines at present, he has been in the hellmand province for over four weeks now and not a day has gone by that i have not worried about where he is and what he is experiencing. He is currently in camp bastion before flying home for his R&R and it fills me with nothing but relief that you write about the holiday camp he is in. i know from speaking to him that life is not as comfortable or as easy as you make it sound i only wish it were, then maybe i would not feel so ill at ease with his deployment.
- Tracey Nicholl. Staffordshire England, staffordshire. uk
I am a former US Marine, a Viet Nam era veteran, if the personnel that you write about in the Article about Camp Bastion which you refer to as Camp Do Nothing have seen no action at the base the it is nothing but a pure blessing. On patrols I am quite sure they have seen far more action then any civilized human shoul dbe witness to. I honor those personnel who have served and are serving no matter where they are or what they are doing. My son is currently a US Marine stationed in Afghanistan and I pray for his and all other military peosnnel who are in or may be in harms way. You do those people, the families, yourself and your family a grest dis-honor by not only the title of the article but it's contents. I can only hope that you never feel the personal greif and sting of the loss of loved one so far from home.
Don
- Don Bender, Schoharie, New York USA
My son will be heading over soon to your camp. I am glad to hear how nice it is as my son has been telling me he would be in remote camps with not such good conditions. I too am glad to hear it has been calm over there. Everyone stay safe and I too send lots of love to everyone who is serving over there.
- Sheri Duncan, Seattle Washington Usa, Seattle Washington USA
My partner is out in Afghanistan for the next 6/7months,i wont be able to contact him until i hear from him first..thats usually days,but mostly more weeks at a time.
All the families keep their fingers crossed the whole time our loved ones are away,counting down the days until they return..so don't say they have it easy and aren't working hard!..like to see you try there training and what they go through mentally and physically!
Our forces are under paid,have to buy there own kits and when they do get R&R its always in there time having to travel back and not when they arrive home!bloody ridiculous!
as for being under paid,..footballers are over paid,thousands of pounds a week for what?.. kicking a football around which they've been playing since the age of 8?I'm sure we'd all be good if we did the same!?!..be a real man!most women are more of a man than footballers!..try risking your own life for a job which you get bad money for from our own government!Gordon Brown saying our troops are better off etc?i don't think so!
Best wishes to all our heros out therexxx
- Julie Harper, cambridge england
I was in the Army in the sixties and living next door to the father in law of a marine who was very badly wounded in Afghanistan. We were very lucky to face no combat during this time. So I hold my admiration for those that are in the war zones, in high regard. Just because there is no fighting at the moment, does not mean that there will be any in the future. So your correspondent was wrong to cast doubts on their lifestyle.
- Mr Andrew Brawn, Risca
I have been looking for information everyday since my brother went out to Afghanistan on march 26th. I have read what you have said and you might be right it might seem like a holiday camp but what when they do come under fire, will it still be like a holiday camp then? The troops are putting their lives in danger to help our country, we should be supporting them, not giving them grief about have a few luxuries before they go out and fight. I send a lot of love over there not only to my brother but for all of our troops. Also love to the families that have been unfortunate to have lost somebody out there. I hope they all stay safe lots of love to everyone x x
- Victoria Garcia, Ellesmre, Port England
My son has just gone to Bastion, so was interested to read all I can.
Bastion is just a rest stop, in a week's time my son'll be disapearing pretty much off the face of the earth for a month, when he goes out on patrols etc.
For goodness sake don't begrudge them their downtime. Maybe our boys shouldn't be out there, maybe the politics is all wrong, but that doesn't mean they don't deserve our hundred percent support. Maybe you should go to Kandahar and take a look at the American and Canadian PX's and fascilities compared to the UK's. Gordon Brown says our boys are now better equiped etc, so why are they still buying their own kit? It's not for fashion whatever they have been told to tell you, it's because our stuff is crap. My brother's armour vest he uses for paint ball offers more protection than the stuff our troops have.
Maybe the press needs to get to the real stories and hardships not just spout what they are told to.
- Lol, Scottish Borders
Listen here, I'm a marine proud to be part of 45commando royal marines I spent 4 1/2 months in Helmand on operation Herrick, 5 based at camp bastion and one things for certain, every single Royal Marine who enters that place is fully ready to do the job required, we are professional killers, what you have written angers me unbelievably, a friend of mine was blown up by an anti tank mine in Sangin so for the record as you say no shot was fired in anger in 30 days. There are nastier things out there which can kill kill/blow up a soldier than a simple bullet, so think about it, as for marines lying about bored. For the majority it’s simply a resting place for us, if we got shot at all day every day for 6months there wouldn’t be many going home to their families, so listen here you spent little time out there and as a result don’t deserve to write this article. P.S. royal marines fight for the cause you have no right.
- Anon, England
