Catwalk guide stops short of size zero ban

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Size matters: models such as this girl at London Fashion Week will face a new set of health guidelines

A series of measures have been unveiled in an attempt to stop catwalk models starving themselves to death.

The steps came from the Model Health Inquiry, which was set up amid concerns about the use of "dangerously" thin girls during last year's London Fashion Week.

However, its report stopped short of endorsing practical measures such as weighing models before allowing them on the runway.

It said attempts to do so in other countries had proved "ineffective".

As an alternative, it invited responses to an approach based on the body mass index - a calculation that takes into account height as well as weight. The interim report said: "In particular we are interested in views on the impact of introducing guidance that models with BMIs below 18.5 should not appear during London Fashion Week."

The "size-zero" debate has sparked fierce criticism of fashion designers and model agents, who stand accused of exploiting and neglecting young and vulnerable models.

The 21-page report, published today, makes reference to "startling medical evidenceî about the prevalence of eating disorders within the industry. It outlines a number of suggestions to stamp out "bad practicesî and rehabilitate the image of British fashion.

Recommendations include:

• Banning girls aged under 16 from appearing on the catwalk and in photo shoots;

• Establishing a trade union for models;

• Training agency staff to identify eating disorders;

• Forcing agencies to screen their models medically on an annual basis;

• Providing "good qualityî food backstage during catwalk shows;

• Encouraging older models to act as mentors for younger ones;

• Ensuring London Fashion Week is both drug-free and smoke-free backstage;

• Establishing a licensing system for model agencies.

• The British Fashion Council will deliver a full report before London Fashion Week in September.

It is not expected to ban models who are size-zero - a British size four. The issue was highlighted after the deaths last year of Brazilian Ana Carolina Reston, 21, and Uruguayan Luisel Ramos, 22, apparently from malnutrition or anorexia.

The Model Health Inquiry was chaired by Baroness Kingsmill and panel members included model Erin O'Connor, designers Betty Jackson and Giles Deacon and agency boss Sarah Doukas.

The panel warned that under-16s were "particularly vulnerableî and raised concerns about the sexual exploitation of children in requiring them to represent adult women.

In a statement, Baroness Kingsmill painted a stark picture of a troubled industry dogged by outdated practices.

She said: "During our investigations the panel became increasingly concerned as we heard details about the working conditions faced by many models and the vulnerability of young women working in an unregulated environment. Working conditions are far from transparent."

Responding to the report, Hilary Riva, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, said: "There are several key recommendations which support the BFC's well established policy on minimum model age, no smoking and no drug use at BFCrun venues... How these recommendations will be implemented will need to be discussed with model agencies, casting directors and designers so they can be in place for September's Fashion Week.

"The BFC is responsible for organising London Fashion Week but supporting models does not fall within its remit. If the BFC is to take on a role in this important area, new sources of funding will be required."

 

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