Don't tell Hyacinth but the doily is dead - News - Evening Standard
       

Don't tell Hyacinth but the doily is dead

Once, no self-respecting cake stand or plate was complete without one.

But now the traditional paper doily, for decades a symbol of suburban gentility, is on the verge of extinction.

Asda reported yesterday that it sold only 400 packs last week, compared with an average of 12,000 a week 15 years ago.

The terminal decline in demand is down to changing social trends, says the supermarket.

Since the 1950s doilies have been regarded as a sign of high class and good manners.

But many now view them as outdated and the preserve of snobs - as epitomised by Hyacinth Bucket in the sitcom Keeping Up Appearances.

In an attempt to drag the product into the 21st century and make it appeal to a younger generation, Asda is considering producing a new range of doilies with pictures of celebrities such as Wayne Rooney and Coleen McLoughlin.

Designers are also being asked to try vibrant colours such as purple, gold and silver as part of a proposed 'Save Our Doilies' campaign.

Julie Simpson, Asda's doily buyer, said: "It may look like a simple paper table decoration but the doily was once regarded as a pillar of what it means to be British. However, sales have collapsed and it is in danger of disappearing altogether.

"Using pictures of celebrities may not appeal to all doily lovers but we are willing to consider every option to preserve this great British tradition."

Doilies are made from white paper cut to resemble a variety of delicate patterns. They were designed as a cheap alternative to crochet linen doilies found in the homes of the aristocracy since the 17th century.

Sales rocketed in the 1950s as a reaction to post-war austerity and the doily quickly became a symbol of upward social mobility.

Miss Simpson added: "At one time every cake stand, plate and saucer had to have a paper doily on it to look respectable.

"Inviting the vicar to tea, holding a cake sale or even a meeting of the Mothers' Union would have been unthinkable without a generous and continuous supply of doilies on hand."

The supermarket is also keen to stress the 'practical advantages' of doilies, such as absorbing grease or soaking up tea that has spilled into a saucer.

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