First Lady of fashion has a bright future

Some might call it yellow; others might say pale gold, while unkind souls might label it mustard. In fact, the designer of Mrs Obama's matching coat and shift dress refers to its unusual hue as "lemongrass".

Made of Swiss wool lace, backed with netting for warmth and lined in French silk, the pale lemon ensemble was the work of Isabel Toledo, 48, a Cuban-born New Yorker. Though she had designed the garments specifically for her, she did not know until that morning whether Mrs Obama would wear them. "I wanted to pick a very optimistic colour that had sunshine," Toledo said. "I wanted her to feel charmed, and in that way would charm everybody."

That Mrs Obama chose to wear Toledo is both unexpected and predictable. Toledo is a relatively small, niche designer, but with a loyal clientele that appreciates her quirky, sophisticated designs.

What makes the choice predictable is that it follows Mrs Obama's predilection for less established designers of diverse backgrounds and ethnicities. It is thought Toledo worked closely with Ikram Goldman, owner of Ikram, the Chicago boutique to which Mrs Obama is a frequent visitor, on the style of the First Lady's inauguration dress.

While some commentators dismissed the coat as frumpy - possibly by dint of its length - the fabric certainly paid a nod to current catwalk trends. The diamante detail on the neck was eye-catching without being overwhelming, while the silk scarf in a contrasting shade of yellow provided an interesting twist.

But if red and green should never be seen, then what of green and yellow? Mrs Obama's choice of racing green footwear could either be described as delicious or dreadful, depending on how strictly you subscribe to the universal rules of colour coordination.

The shoes, a mid-heeled "Glacier" court by Jimmy Choo, were an inspired choice, far quirkier than white or boring black. And while the green J Crew gloves may have been a little matchy-matchy, they still finished off the outfit in a polished manner that would have made Jacqueline Onassis proud.

For the balls, Mrs Obama made her entrance in an ivory chiffon gown by emerging designer Jason Wu, a 26-year-old Taipei native. The gown, which had a one-shouldered effect that showcased Mrs Obama's muscular shoulders, was made of many layers of chiffon and flecked with organza flowers and crystals that sparkled as she walked.

More full-skirted than the evening dresses she usually wears, it made an imposing entrance. It seemed to strike just the right note of "fairytale princess" on a night that was a fairytale to every black American, and a ray of hope to all.