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Gordon Ramsey fires new salvo at Marco Pierre White
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09 July 2008
The chef has named Quo Vadis as his favourite restaurant, lavishing praise on its new owners Sam and Eddie Hart, in a thinly veiled attack on its former owner Pierre White.
Ramsay described the Hart brothers as "restaurateurs in the fullest sense of the word" who have "revitalised" the restaurant and restored it "to its former glory". The Harts bought the Soho dining room from Pierre White late last year.
Pierre White's tenure in charge of the Dean Street institution had endured mixed reviews and ended abruptly in November.
Mr Ramsay's remarks come in a survey of the dining rooms London's top chefs like to eat at when they take a night off.
Jamie Oliver, who runs Fifteen in Islington, enjoys dining at the Intercontinental in Mayfair, sampling the work of chef Theo Randall, his former colleague at the River Café.
Other restaurants which proved popular in the survey - carried out by Richard Vines, chief food critic for Bloomberg News - include Le Café Anglais (Bayswater), Le Gavroche (SW1), Hibiscus (Mayfair), Pétrus (Knightsbridge) and Yauatcha (Soho).
Mr Vines said chefs made the most astute critics as they looked not only at food, but also ambience, service and attention to detail.
Marcus Wareing, of Pétrus - the favourite restaurant of Aiden Byrne from the Dorchester Grill in Park Lane - said he liked simple dining and returned Byrne's compliment.
"One of the best meals I had in recent time was Aiden Byrne at the Dorchester Grill," Wareing said. "It's a shame people talk about the room rather than the cuisine, which is so good. How he got missed by Michelin I can't imagine.''
The antipathy between Pierre White and Ramsay dates back to the Eighties, when a novice Ramsay worked for Pierre White at Harvey's in Wandsworth. It is said Ramsay was reduced to tears by his volatile boss.
Later, Ramsay admitted stealing the reservations book from Aubergine in Fulham in 1998, where he was then head chef, and blaming it on his former mentor. The pair have sniped at each other ever since.
WHERE THE CHEFS EAT
Tom Aikens, Tom's Kitchen
"The Wolseley, because the food is great, the service is fun and Chris Corbin and Jeremy King are just the best."
Pascal Aussignac, Club Gascon
"Yauatcha. Alan Yau is the greatest restaurateur in London. He's so clever to be able to combine quality and consistency."
Claude Bosi, Hibiscus
"Yauatcha ... I enjoy the casual atmosphere and the quality."
Antonin Bonnet, Greenhouse
"Hibiscus, because it's unique, cutting edge and has its own identity."
Aiden Byrne, Dorchester Grill
"Pétrus. I've only eaten Marcus Wareing's food once and I was extremely impressed."
Richard Corrigan, Bentleys
"Le Gavroche. Silvano [Giraldin] is one of the best front of house. He'll make a pauper feel like a prince."
Anthony Demetre, Arbutus
"Le Café Anglais is completely unpretentious and has the best roast chicken on the planet."
Brett Graham, Ledbury
"I know Shane Osborn's my mate, but I always do enjoy the food at Pied à Terre. Of recent meals, I had a very impressive lunch at Pétrus."
Henry Harris, Soho House
"Le Café Anglais. At lunchtime, with the sunlight streaming in, the parmesan custard... you couldn't ask for anything more."
Angela Hartnett, York & Albany
"St John because it's just around the corner and is always a treat."
Mark Hix, Hix Oyster & Chop House
"Cay Tre and Viet Grill because it's the best, most authentic Vietnamese food in London."
Philip Howard, The Square
"River Café serves the best food in London."
Atul Kochhar, Benares
"My all-time favourite is Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea. It just purrs along with the most dazzling food and incredible service."
Rowley Leigh, Le Café Anglais
"Le Gavroche is Le Gavroche and still the best in town."
Jamie Oliver, Fifteen
"I love Theo Randall at the Intercontinental."
Shane Osborn, Pied à Terre
"Recently, I had a fantastic meal at Texture and at Hibiscus."
Gordon Ramsay, Gordon Ramsay
"Quo Vadis. I am a great admirer of Sam and Eddie Hart ... I am delighted to see Quo Vadis restored to its former glory."
Marcus Wareing, Pétrus
"One of the best meals I had in recent time was Aiden Byrne at the Dorchester Grill."
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