If you can stand the heat, book this Launceston Place table for two

Chef Tristan Welch, who trained with Gordon Ramsay, has created a table for two in the centre of his restaurant kitchen — inches from the cookers.

Diners at Launceston Place in Kensington can sit in the main preparation area surrounded by cooks and waiters.

The wooden stools may be basic but you get to sample whatever takes your fancy from the triple AA-rosette menu as the dishes are prepared under your nose.

While most chefs' tables — such as Ramsay's at Claridge's, where Cherie Blair bought Tony his 50th birthday dinner in 2003 — are sumptuous, sealed-off enclosures, here you are right in the heat, noise and action.

"We wanted to get rid of the segregation between diners and chefs," shouts Welch, 30, over the kitchen din.

"Our team is young and friendly. Here you can chat to them and if you like the look of what they're making, ask to try it."

And he warned: "If a bollocking happens, you're going to notice it."

It is, he concedes, a place for "a real foodie's treat, rather than a first date".

Certainly, you should take someone you don't mind knocking knees with. Hunched against the aluminium shelving of the preparation table, my colleague Jasmine and I started with a périgord and bianchetti truffle risotto.

Then small, juicy slices of rump of salt marsh lamb were carved, accompanied by apple compote. A comment on how much we loved crackling ensured a piece of succulent pork skin followed.

"I need copper pans now!" bellowed one cook into my ear as a delicate fillet of trout poached in smoked oil with watercress slid on to the narrow strip of tablecloth in front of me.

Welch's team, led by Alan Stewart, 27, and including last year's Masterchef winner Steve Groves, are friendly and happy to answer questions.

It's like a more informal version of Launceston Place's tasting menu, with added drama, and also costs £55 per head.

Normally, sommelier Mickey Narea would supply matching wines at a cost of £48 to £68 but here he pours something suitable for whatever the kitchen serves.

The 2003 Chateau Dereszla Tokaji went particularly well with the custard with malt ice cream.

Welch is keen for members of the public to apply for the table.

What would happen if diners sent a dish back to the kitchen crew working in front of them? "I'd like to see them try," he said.