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World War Two vegetable comes back as 'superfood'
03 October 2007
Kale was included in the Dig for Victory campaign as a vegetable that was easy to grow and provided important nutrients to supplement meagre diets during rationing.
A relative of the cabbage, it faded from the meal table and recipe books after the war, not least because of its somewhat metallic taste and the fact that it turned into an unappealing green mush when boiled.
Sixty years on, however, kale is being relaunched following the development of a sweeter, more attractive variety.
The experts behind baby leaf curly kale say it is tastier than the wartime version, which was grown in many of the 1.4 million allotments which sprang up across Britain in the Second World War.
It retains the rich mixture of vitamins, minerals and anti-oxidants that made it a vital ingredient in keeping the nation healthy in troubled times.
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There is a growing body of evidence showing those raised on a wartime diet, where many fatty and sugary foods were either unavailable or rationed, were considerably healthier and fitter than their modern-day counterparts.
Wiltshire farmer Rob Corlett, who has 12 years of experience growing baby leaf salads, hopes his development will become a household and restaurant staple, rivalling broccoli and spinach as a supermarket superfood.
'Curly kale's baby leaves are sweet and tender and can be cooked in two minutes which makes it a very attractive vegetable,' said Mr Corlett. 'There is nothing like it on the market.
'It is quite a difficult plant to grow as it is prone to disease and insect attack, particularly in its early stages. The key is daily care and attention from the moment the seeds are sown until harvest six weeks later.'
Baby leaf curly kale, which has been launched under the slogan 'BLCK is the new Green', has the support of the National Osteoporosis Society because it is a good source of calcium, needed for a bone-healthy diet.
Mr Corlett said: 'The heritage of kale is important to the nation but baby leaf curly kale is a fantastic vegetable. I'm very proud we've been able to bring a great British vegetable back to the dining table.'
Older varieties of kale are occasionally available in larger supermarkets and are served in some upmarket restaurants, but the green has nevertheless fallen out of favour.
Traditionally it was boiled, like cabbage, and served with the main meal of the day, perhaps boiled bacon and potatoes.
It might also have been combined with mashed potatoes and leeks in a version of colcannon.
More modern recipes include Kale Nicoise, where it is combined with green beans, olives, boiled eggs, canneloni beans and French dressing, and Penne pasta with kale, roast onions and gorgonzola.
'Kale was an important vegetable during wartime and it was promoted because it was easy to grow and provided lots of nutrition,' said John McPherson, of the Imperial War Museum.
The museum, which is staging a Dig for Victory exhibition at the Cabinet War Rooms, has cultivated a wartime allotment in St. James's Park this year.
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