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Ramsay tries out the P-word (that's pub)
By Gideon Spanier, Evening Standard 30.10.06
Ramsay is to spend more than £6 million transforming the Warrington Hotel into a gastropub
Gordon Ramsay Holdings has reportedly paid £5.2 million to buy the Victorian hostelry
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Gordon Ramsay is already the dominant haute cuisine chef in the capital with nine restaurants in the West End, including some of most celebrated and expensive venues, such as Claridge's, the Savoy Grill and the Connaught.
Now the Michelin-starred TV cook is branching out in a new direction for his 10th establishment - both geographically and in terms of cuisine.
Ramsay is to spend more than £6 million transforming the Warrington Hotel in Maida Vale into a gastropub, the first in a planned series. Gordon Ramsay Holdings, his restaurant company, has reportedly paid £5.2 million to buy the Victorian hostelry, which has a stunning art nouveau interior.
The ground-floor saloon - which is Grade II listed - features a long, curving bar with a carved base, while the walls are adorned with ornate plasterwork, cherubs and mirrors. Upstairs has long been home to the popular Ben's Thai Restaurant.
A source at the Warrington said: "Gordon Ramsay's firm has spoken to the people here about moving out - now all they are awaiting is contracts in writing. "The people who run the Thai restaurant are expecting to leave by early next year. They are quite worried as they don't know where they are going to move to."
The Warrington, which ceased to be a hotel long ago, has an intriguing history. Built in 1859, it was rumoured to have once been a brothel. Locals believe this may be more legend than truth, as the pub used to be owned by the Church of England.
It was extensively revamped around 1900 and in recent years has been a popular haunt with musicians because of its proximity to the BBC radio studios. Bob Dylan and Starsky & Hutch actor David Soul have both been spotted at the bar.
There is speculation that Ramsay, whose Hell's Kitchen and Kitchen Nightmares TV series were both successful, might base a new programme-around the redevelopment. One restaurant critic, who declined to be named, said that while he admires Ramsay, he fears that he will find it difficult to maintain such high standards as "the machine" continues to expand.
"Given Ramsay's prices elsewhere, I would be surprised if the Warrington was not a lot more expensive than your average gastropub," the critic added.
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Reader views (10)
Here's a sample of the latest views published. You can click view all to read all views that readers have sent in.
This was my favourite drinking hole in London and hopefully the main bar will remain untouched. So long as food is upstairs and it doesn't take away from the great drinking culture downstairs, I couldn't care less who owns it. Let's be honest, current/previous management were about as rude as they came. The small bar has always been a dump for the local dross so that can only get better. Fingers crossed that beer prices don't rocket because then the only people in there will be the tossers that frequent his other venues.
- Juan, Chorleywood, Herts
No chef, what ever their reputation can replace the infamous Ben's Thai. This is a tragedy. I cannot believe that my favourite restaurant of all time is going to be changed into an expensive swearing hole for the foul-mouthed. Please please keep us updated as to where Ben's is moving to, we shall certainly be following them!
- Maz, Beaconsfield, Bucks
Lee van Cleef is right on the button. Sure, the landlord's mood leaves a lot to be desired and there are times when a good carpet clean wouldn't go amiss but give me this any day over pashmina clad, Marlboro Light wannabees who've singlehandedly destroyed most pubs in the area.
- Ken Hutchinson, London
18°c
