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Ramsay tries out the P-word (that's pub)
By Gideon Spanier, Evening Standard 30.10.06
Ramsay is to spend more than £6 million transforming the Warrington Hotel into a gastropub
Gordon Ramsay Holdings has reportedly paid £5.2 million to buy the Victorian hostelry
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Gordon Ramsay is already the dominant haute cuisine chef in the capital with nine restaurants in the West End, including some of most celebrated and expensive venues, such as Claridge's, the Savoy Grill and the Connaught.
Now the Michelin-starred TV cook is branching out in a new direction for his 10th establishment - both geographically and in terms of cuisine.
Ramsay is to spend more than £6 million transforming the Warrington Hotel in Maida Vale into a gastropub, the first in a planned series. Gordon Ramsay Holdings, his restaurant company, has reportedly paid £5.2 million to buy the Victorian hostelry, which has a stunning art nouveau interior.
The ground-floor saloon - which is Grade II listed - features a long, curving bar with a carved base, while the walls are adorned with ornate plasterwork, cherubs and mirrors. Upstairs has long been home to the popular Ben's Thai Restaurant.
A source at the Warrington said: "Gordon Ramsay's firm has spoken to the people here about moving out - now all they are awaiting is contracts in writing. "The people who run the Thai restaurant are expecting to leave by early next year. They are quite worried as they don't know where they are going to move to."
The Warrington, which ceased to be a hotel long ago, has an intriguing history. Built in 1859, it was rumoured to have once been a brothel. Locals believe this may be more legend than truth, as the pub used to be owned by the Church of England.
It was extensively revamped around 1900 and in recent years has been a popular haunt with musicians because of its proximity to the BBC radio studios. Bob Dylan and Starsky & Hutch actor David Soul have both been spotted at the bar.
There is speculation that Ramsay, whose Hell's Kitchen and Kitchen Nightmares TV series were both successful, might base a new programme-around the redevelopment. One restaurant critic, who declined to be named, said that while he admires Ramsay, he fears that he will find it difficult to maintain such high standards as "the machine" continues to expand.
"Given Ramsay's prices elsewhere, I would be surprised if the Warrington was not a lot more expensive than your average gastropub," the critic added.
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Reader views (10)
This was my favourite drinking hole in London and hopefully the main bar will remain untouched. So long as food is upstairs and it doesn't take away from the great drinking culture downstairs, I couldn't care less who owns it. Let's be honest, current/previous management were about as rude as they came. The small bar has always been a dump for the local dross so that can only get better. Fingers crossed that beer prices don't rocket because then the only people in there will be the tossers that frequent his other venues.
- Juan, Chorleywood, Herts
No chef, what ever their reputation can replace the infamous Ben's Thai. This is a tragedy. I cannot believe that my favourite restaurant of all time is going to be changed into an expensive swearing hole for the foul-mouthed. Please please keep us updated as to where Ben's is moving to, we shall certainly be following them!
- Maz, Beaconsfield, Bucks
Lee van Cleef is right on the button. Sure, the landlord's mood leaves a lot to be desired and there are times when a good carpet clean wouldn't go amiss but give me this any day over pashmina clad, Marlboro Light wannabees who've singlehandedly destroyed most pubs in the area.
- Ken Hutchinson, London
Very exciting, having lived in Maida Vale for years this continues the trend for better and more exciting venues. The Elgin, E-bar, Waterway and Formosa Dining room already serve the medium price space but Gordon will have to be careful so not to go the same way as "hush" aka "ottos" - high prices here killed it off twice in the past 3 years... and this is just 100yards down the road rom the warrington. Good luck!
- Stephen Ryan, Maida Vale, London
I've real mixed feelings about this. The Warrington has been a faithful local for many years, and I love Ben's Thai upstairs. However, the landlord is a pain in the rump steak and I won't miss him. I think Ramsey could update *my* pub and make it a great place. On the other hand, if it becomes an overly expensive visitors attraction, I won't be so pleased.
- Matthew, Maida Vale
If Ramsay is extending the empire to include gastropubs I hope he first learns how to cook fish. Perhaps he could take a lesson from Mark Hix at Sheekey's on the finer points.
- Margaret Morrison, London, UK
Before any body starts to speculate about the pub changing, why don't they just wait and see what is going to happen to the place first. Do you honestly think that Ramsay Holdings is going to go into a place that is so beautiful and steeped in history and turn it into a modern restaurant. I have heard that the food is going to be brought back to traditonal pub grub, such as pies and great British comfort food and the pub is just going to be reformed to it's former glory. In fact you won't even know that Gordon Ramsay has anything to do with it apart from the fact that everything is going to be of the highest quality and the prices are not going to shock. Apparently the idea is to keep it very much as a real pub and the words "Gastropub" do not apply here. Though the people who moan about change are no fun to have around anyway, so maybe it's best that they stay away, but I'm sure that they will be missing out!
- Anon, London
The Warrington is a dirty smelly pub that has lost its charm, hopefully Ramsey can restore it to its former glory, although I hope the food will be better and simpler than at Claridges and The Connaught which were both better before he arrived, especially The Connaught under chef Bourdin.
- John Bishop, London
I like Gordon Ramsay, but I like my local more. Why does everything have to become part of a 'corporation'? What ever happened to small business, local companies and supporting the little guy? The Warrington is a wonderful local pub, and my friends and I have spent many an evening having a few beverages downstairs, and then popping up to Ben's for a yummy pad thai. Leave the local pubs alone!
- Deb Stein, Maida Vale
What a nightmare - this'll strip any character and soul out of the place and drive away those ordinary punters who pop in for a pint and sit at the bar and also no doubt the prices will be ridiculously expensive - what is the point a pub is a pub at the end of the day, a local neighbourhood meeting place - now it's going to be full of those awful rich trendies a la primrose hill and notting hill - criminal
- Lee Van Cleef, Hampton
