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Ramsay feels heat in US kitchen
By Amar Singh, Evening Standard 08.01.07
Ramsay: has not impressed US critics
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Gordon Ramsay is suffering a kitchen nightmare of his own, after critics roundly panned his first New York restaurant.
Several leading food writers have been left unimpressed by the chef 's £3 million venture, Gordon Ramsay at The London.
Ramsay, 40, who attempts to turn around the fortunes of failing restaurants on his hit Channel Four show Kitchen Nightmares, has been lambasted for serving up "overcooked" sea scallops, "leathery" lobster ravioli, and a mushroom risotto branded a "distinct disappointment". He is said to be furious after reading the reviews.
The largest portion of criticism was dished out by the New York Magazine's critic Gael Green who wrote: "The chef's signature feint, a luscious smoky froth with white beans, has us sighing, but most everything else is a work-in-progress.
"Sea scallops, slivered, then overcooked, suggest someone hasn't a clue what great chefs here do with diver scallops.
"We are shocked by a leathery lobster ravioli and an unseemly marriage of langoustine tails and maple-infused chicken (not to mention the bill)."
Ms Green also criticised the Manhattan restaurant for its lavatory doors which do not lock properly.
Meanwhile, Alan Richman, of Bloomberg News, was also unimpressed, writing: "I was instantly reminded of the French-international cuisine that British chefs turn out whenever they ply their trade aboard cruise ships."
Ahead of the restaurant's opening, Ramsay said that making his name in America would be his greatest achievement.
He said: "It is the burning ambition of every top chef in the world to succeed in New York. Everyone keeps telling me to slow down... When I have achieved three stars in New York and three stars in Paris, then I'll ask myself 'Should I take my foot off the gas'?"
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Reader views (4)
Having dined at two of Ramseys restaurants in London on a number of occasions I can honestly say I have never been let down by the quality of the food and the great service provided.
Our Stateside cousins dont know what they are talking about.
- Malcolm Mitchell, Walton on Thames, Surrey UK
I take no notice of American food writers. Ramsay will succeed Stateside. Have no doubt in this man and his talented and loyal team around him.
- Jjnewman, London, England.
It did not surprise me that poor Gordon received such obnoxious reviews from the American food critics. Gordon is totally overrated, and he knows how to use the expensive PR machine for self-promotion. Bravo to our American cousins for such a brave and objective review!
- Phil Wing, UK
I think Gordon should be using recipes from his wife's cookery book for The London.
- Felina, London
