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Two more Michelin stars for Gordon's empire
By Amar Singh & Ellen Widdup, Evening Standard 24.01.07
Ramsay remains the only chef to have a restaurant in London with the coveted three stars
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Gordon Ramsay strengthened his grip on the London restaurant scene today after two more Michelin stars were added to his empire.
The chef's new Manhattan venture may have been panned by critics, but the announcement means his gastronomic reputation on this side of the Atlantic remains firmly intact.
His Belgravia restaurant, Petrus, was the only London restaurant today to be awarded a prestigious second star.
His Chelsea establishment La Noisette - where protégé Bjorn van der Horst creates bespoke dishes - was also added to the list of recommendations, which is widely regarded as the most influential ratings list in the restaurant trade.
Ramsay remains the only chef to have a restaurant in London with the coveted three stars.
His eponymous Chelsea spot, which was awarded the accolade in 2001, sits alongside restaurants the Fat Duck and the Waterside Inn, both in Bray, Berkshire, as the only restaurants in the UK with three stars.
Three further restaurants in the capital also received stars. They are L'Atelier de Joel Robuchonin Covent Garden; Arbutus, in Soho and Benares in Mayfair. Ramsay's former mentor Mr Robuchon has award-winning restaurants across the world. But he only opened his first London restaurant L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon less than six months ago.
Just a few yards from The Ivy, it has rapidly become one of the most fashionable places to eat in the city with its unique menu of French food given a Japanese makeover. Signature dishes include langoustine ravioli in an aromatic truffle and duck liver sauce and a melt-inthe-mouth mash which has the same weight of butter to potato.
Arbutus in Soho, was tipped for success last year by the Evening Standard's Fay Maschler, and is already a West End favourite thanks to its reasonably priced pre-theatre menu and wine list.
Co-owned by Will Smith and chef Anthony Demetre, it opened on Frith Street, on the site of the former Bistro Bruno, last May and serves what has been described as robust provincial French food, integrated with the best of traditional British cuisine.
Atul Kochhar, who became the first Indian chef to be awarded a Michelin star at Tamarind in 2001, repeated the feat with his independent venture, Benares. The 37-year-old chef, who cooked for the Queen last year as part of her 80th birthday celebrations, is renowned for the subtlety of his spice mixes and modern presentation of his creations.
A Michelin "rising star", which are handed out to promising newcomers, was given to Galvin at Windows - the restaurant that overlooks the capital perched atop the London Hilton on Park Lane. The relaunch of the iconic restaurant, with its popular panoramic views, was presided over by former Wolseley chef Chris Galvin.
The winners...
ONE STAR
L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Covent Garden - head chef Olivier Limousin
Arbutus, in Soho - head chef
Anthony Demetre Benares in Mayfair - head chef Atul Kochhar
La Noisette in Chelsea - head chef Bjorn van der Horst
TWO STARS
Petrus in Belgravia - head chef Marcus Wareing
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Reader views (1)
I would just like to express my utter surprise in learning that Arbutus has been awarded the coverted first star. I'm well aware of the talent that Antony Demetre posesses, Putney bridge gained him a star and L'odeon before earnt him a strong reputation. However, a first star awarded within the first year of opening is very special and should happen in special restaurants only. I had a very forgettable meal in a very boring dining room served by very casual waiters in jeans. I don't know wether certain michelin criteria has changed but I think that with so many restaurants and chefs alike striving for the best, I can only see this star as lowering the bar.
On a final note, well done Mr Waring, overdue and but deserved.
- Paul Longworth, London
