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Catch the best fishmongers
By Charles Campion, Evening Standard 21.02.07
Hooked: Steve Hatt is the fourth generation of his family to run the bustling Essex Road business
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One of the trickiest aspects of eating more healthily is the lack of agreement among experts as to just what is good for you.
Until recently some American authorities have suggested that pregnant women would be better off reducing the amount of fish in their diet, while some British scientists have linked consumption of fish to brainier babies.
But research recently published in The Lancet and based upon a lengthy study of 9,000 families in Bristol suggests that eating fish during pregnancy definitely has beneficial effects on both the communication skills of 18-month-old babies and the motor co-ordination of children by the time they are three and a half. The babies of mothers in the control group, who never ate fish, lagged behind.
It is thought that the benefits come from the proteins, minerals and fatty acids (particularly omega-3) found in fish - with the one important caveat that shark, swordfish and marlin are to be avoided due to potentially harmful levels of pollutants such as mercury.
So, when our grannies used to go on about "fish being good for the brain" they were probably right, and all of us, particularly sensible pregnant mums, should make a note of the best local fishmongers. Here are our top 10.
There has been a fishmonger on Cale Street for over 70 years. Currently the best value in healthy fish here is the mackerel (£6.95 per kg) and sardines or herrings (between £5 and £7 per kg). We are coming to the end of the herring season and their availability and price vary. The Chelsea Fishmonger, 10 Cale Street, SW3 (020 7589 9432).
Handily placed for anyone using Clapham South underground station, Moxon's is a friendly fishmonger's shop. Sardines are a good buy (£4.40 per kg) as is mackerel (£5.50 per kg). Also recommended are plaice fillets (£13.50 per kg), megrim soles and witch soles (£8.99 per kg) - these less fashionable soles taste every bit as good as the pricier lemon or Dover. Moxon's, Westbury Parade Shop E, Nightingale Lane, SW4 (020 8675 2468).
In March 2006, the Fabray family took over the fishmonger's on Barnes High Street and renamed it the Barnes Fish Shop. The French sardines are good (£5.50 per kg), and there are plentiful fat Norwegian herrings (£4 per kg). For a change of pace try the squid (£11 per kg). Barnes Fish Shop, 18 Barnes High Street, SW13 (020 8876 1297).
Cape Clear was set up by Nick Wilson who was formerly at the Fish Shop at Kensington Place. Currently he has good supplies of top quality West Country fish, with herring (£4 per kg) and lemon soles (£18 per kg) the star turns. Cape Clear Speciality Seafoods, 119 Shepherds Bush Road, W6 (020 7751 1609).
Steve Hatt is the fourth generation of Hatts to hold court at this bustling Islington shop. For healthy eating there are herrings (£5.51 per kg), small mackerel (£6.60 per kg), French sardines (£5.29 per kg) and English haddock (£14.55 per kg). Steve Hatt, 88-90 Essex Road, N1 (020 7226 3963).
The line-up of shops on Muswell Hill Broadway continues to change but one constant is Walter Purkis who, for over 15 years, has provided fresh fish and helpful advice. Current recommendations for good value fish are mackerel (£6 per kg), trout (£4.95 per kg) and salmon (£12 per kg). Walter Purkis and Sons, 17 The Broadway, N8 (020 8340 6281).
You'll find HS Linwood on Leadenhall Market, where this family business has prospered for 102 years. It is worth noting that Linwood is one of very few fishmongers open on a Monday (but it's closed Saturday and Sunday). Mackerel (£7.04 per kg) and herring (£7.04 per kg) are the best " oilyfish" buys. H S Linwood & Sons, 6-7 Grand Avenue, Leadenhall Market, EC3 (020 7929 0554).
Soper's has been a family business for over a century and has an astonishing range - sometimes as many as 300 different fish are available. The key is a high turnover that keeps prices low, and the shop has a loyal local following. Mackerel (£3.92 per kg) and salmon steaks (£9.39 per kg) are good brain food options. Soper's, 141 Evelina Road, SE15 (020 7639 9729).
George Brown heads this oldestablished family business that offers top quality fish to discerning St John's Wood regulars. Mackerel (£8.90 per kg) and seriously expensive wild Irish salmon (£28 per kg) may tempt but there is also more reasonably priced organic salmon (£16.50). Brown's, 37-39 Charlbert Street, NW8 (020 7722 8237).
Cope's has a strong local following and is also responsible for supplying many local restaurants. The shop has good links with Cornwall and much of the fish is line caught. Mackerel (£8 per kg) and sardines (£4 per kg) are good buys, but there are also Cornish seabass fillets (£19 per kg) and Scottish halibut (£20 per kg). Cope's, 700 Fulham Road, SW6 (020 7371 7300).
FSA DO'S AND DON'TS
The Food Standards Agency advice (www.eatwell.gov.uk/agesandstages/) is that mothers-to-be "should aim to eat at least two portions of fish a week including one portion of oily fish".
But it recommends that pregnant women should "avoid eating any shark, swordfish and marlin, and limit the amount of tuna you eat to no more than two tuna steaks a week (weighing about 140g cooked or 170g raw) or four medium-size cans of tuna a week (with a drained weight of about 140g per can)".
It has issued this advice because of the levels of mercury in these fish. At high levels, mercury can harm a baby's developing nervous system.
Reader views (1)
Here's a sample of the latest views published.
All very good - but not cheap! For excellent fish at very reasonable prices, don't miss Murray's Fresh Fish stall on Battersea Bridge Road (by the Duke of Cambridge pub) every Friday and Saturday.
- Gautom Kakoty, London, UK
