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Best restaurants for St George's Day
By Hilary Armstrong, London Lite 19.04.07
Chips off the old block: served with roast fillet of Cornish beef at The Albion
English treat: The Grill at the Dorchester
Best of British: Lawrence Keogh, head chef at the resolutely British Roast
Look here too
England may be renowned for many fine things - glorious countryside, stiff upper lips, warm beer and, er, cricket - but food was never among them. Until now. A renewed interest in seasonal food, in the provenance of ingredients and in longforgotten classic dishes has reminded us that there's more to English food than soggy chips, boiled beef and flaccid cabbage.
Hot restaurants such as Scott's, The Narrow and Bumpkin all do a roaring trade in updated old English classics like Stargazy Pie and London Particular.
And when better to celebrate than in time for St George's Day next Monday? So crack open the bubbly - English, of course. We've something to celebrate.
The Albion - full review
10 Thornhill Road N1 (020 7607 7450)
Revamped Barnsbury boozer The Albion is as patriotic as its name, with a fabulous new menu full of produce that is all "English, free range and seasonal".
Try starters like melt-in-the-mouth potted duck (£6) served with crunchy sourdough toast and beetroot salad with goat's cheese (£5) - delicious, naturally sweet red and golden beetroot served with tangy cheese.
One all-English speciality worth ordering on St George's Day is rare roast fillet of Cornish beef with chips, watercress and anchovy butter (£39 for two), served on a wooden board with its own carving knife and fork. Other mains include whole roast mackerel with gooseberries (£10).
There are regular barbecues, too, in The Albion's glorious garden (what smoking ban?). Give them 48 hours' notice and you can feast on a whole roast suckling pig or lamb for 10 people (£195).
If you have room for pudding (all £5), there are several English favourites, such as rhubarb crumble, sticky toffee pudding or a selection of Neal's Yard cheeses. The wine list is international, while cask ales include London Pride and Bombardier.
J Sheekey - full review & online booking
28-32 St Martin's Court WC2 (020 7240 2565)
This smart Theatreland favourite of Kate Moss and assorted luvvies is known for fresh seafood. It's the last place you might expect to find jellied eels with malt vinegar, but apparently they were a favourite of Laurence Oliver and Vivien Leigh, and go down a treat with today's punters.
Cornish fish stew (£19.75), fish pie (£10.75) and spotted dick (£5.50) are mainstays. There's also a roster of specials that might include River Severn elvers (young eels) with Gloucester bacon and wild garlic (£35).
The Grill at The Dorchester - full review & online booking
Park Lane W1 (020 7629 8888)
The décor at the refurbished Grill is so tartan, you'll feel like tossing a caber. But new chef Aiden Byrne is putting a very English treat on the menu for 23 April: English asparagus mayonnaise with St George's mushrooms, so named because they pop up around 23 April, smoked bacon and soft boiled egg.
Byrne's cooking is superior stuff, but it's not cheap, with starters from £12 and mains from £19.50. Best go for lunch and early-evening menus from £25/£27.50 for two/three courses.
Paternoster Chop House - full review & online booking
Warwick Court, Paternoster Square EC4 (020 7029 9400)
Chef Peter Weeden, who works regularly with a group of British suppliers for topquality ingredients, has also been foraging away in a secret location to find the pick of the season: those flavoursome wild St George's mushrooms. He'll be serving them pan-fried with spit-roasted Longhorn beef (£18.50). Patriotic vegetarians will love the new-season English asparagus with gooseegg butter sauce.
Bluebird - book online
350 King's Road SW3 (020 7559 1000)
Lancashire lad Mark Broadbent has timed the reopening of Chelsea's Bluebird restaurant well. Opening on Sunday, it comes just in time for St George's Day, when sparkling English produce comes into its own with the likes of new-season asparagus with hollandaise or saltmarsh Herdwick lamb rump, broad beans, Jersey royals and mint. The puddings sound like childhood treats from another era: try toffee apple sundae, Bakewell tart or rhubarb and custard trifle.
The National Dining Rooms - full review
The Sainsbury Wing, The National Gallery, Trafalgar Square WC2 (020 7747 2525)
It's a very English affair at the National Dining Rooms, which is running a special menu from 23 to 27 April. It includes classic kedgeree, steamed oxtail and ox kidney pudding, beer battered fish and chips, West Country black pudding with apples, bread and butter pudding and Mrs Kirkham's Lancashire cheese with chutney. £19 for two courses, £22 for three.
Roast - full review and online booking
The Floral Hall, Stoney Street SE1 (020 7940 1300)
Take a peek at English life past and present with the St George's menu at Borough's best restaurant. Try proper cockney jellied eels served with malt vinegar or a posh country dish of rare-breed White Park sirloin and St George's mushrooms. Finish in old-school style with jam roly poly or rhubarb crumble and Bird's English custard. Bliss - for £35 per person.
Rules - full review
35 Maiden Lane, Covent Garden WC2 (020 7836 5314)
The oldest restaurant in London is all you'd expect it to be. The ornate, old-fashioned interior - all velour banquettes, open fires and wallmounted antlers - is the perfect setting for classic English cookery. Rib of beef on the bone with Yorkshire pudding for two (£19.95 per person) and steak, kidney and oyster pudding are Rules classics.
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