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Critic's choice: Where to drink sake

By Charles Campion, Evening Standard 23.04.07

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            Umu

For goodness sake: diners sample Kyoto food and one of 153 sakes at Umu

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If you're a bit of a novice when it comes to selecting a sake, Charles Campion reveals where to begin a love affair with the Japanese rice wine...

Umu - full review & online booking
14-16 Bruton Place, W1
Despite setting impossibly high standards, Umu manages to be an accessible place to eat. The Kyoto cuisine is underpinned by a list of 153 different sakes - some at stellar prices; the charming sake sommelier will guide you. £60pp ex-drinks (020 7499 8881).

Matsuri
71 High Holborn, WC1
At the latest International Wine Challenge the number of sakes entered rose from two to more than 100! Matsuri offers an upmarket slant on teppanyaki and is a good place to begin a love affair with the Japanese rice wine. £45pp ex-drinks. (020 7430 1970).

Roka - full review
37 Charlotte Street, W1
Sibling to ¸ber-trendy Zuma, this stylish and well-located restaurant serves modern Japanese food with a few welcome twists. The most interesting dishes come from the robata grill. The sophisticated sake list offers a few treats, too. £45pp ex-drinks (020 7580 6464).


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