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The meat-free marvels
By Genevieve Fox, Evening Standard 23.05.07
Mann: heaven for vegetarians
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There was a time when vegetarian restaurants were the preserve of sandle wearers nibbling nut roasts at pine tables.
But it's no longer the case. Menus for us vegetarians have become so sophisticated and delicious that even the most arch carnivores are trying them out. I set out to track down the best in London.
ROUSSILLON
Michelin-starred Roussillon serves what to stubbornly carnivorous Francophiles would be unthinkable: a seven-course gastronomic Menu Légumes (£60). This seasonal celebration is a mouth-watering treat. To mark Chelsea Flower Show, patron-chef Alexis Gauthier serves a semivegetarian seven-course Flower Menu (£70). 16 St Barnabas Street, SW1 (020 7730 5550, www.roussillon.co.uk).
MILDRED'S
Full of dudish Soho media types on the candy-pink banquettes but great, inexpensive vegetarian food. If you're yearning for a burger this is the spot. The beanburger (£6.90) is excellent with sweet-potato chips, as are the super-healthy salads and stir fries. Mains include roast fennel and chickpea tagine, £7.95. 45 Lexington Street, W1 (020 7494 1634. www.mildreds.co.uk).
BLAH! BLAH! BLAH!
"Blah blah blah!" is how we long to respond when flesh-eaters say vegetarian is boring. Get them to this low-key west-London staple to sample the frequently changing menu. Starters include Vietnamese spring rolls (£5.45), and mains include sweetcorn tostada with sweet potato and refried black beans, £9.95. 78 Goldhawk Road, W12 (020 8746 1337). BYO, corkage £1.45.
MANNA
Everybody from Malcolm McClaren to Moby frequents London's oldest and hippest vegetarian restaurant, which pulls in a carnivorous crowd, too. This ambient, warmly lit place serves flavourful mains including spicy burritos with sweet potato, chickpea and feta (£12.50). Pudding, including cocoa eclair with strawberry syllabub on roast rhubarb and ginger, must not be missed. 4 Erskine Road, NW3 (020 7722 8028, www.manna-veg.com).
THE GATE
Set in a former artist's studio, starters include tomato and Gorgonzola tart with thyme pastry (£5.50). Hungry carnivores who think veggies are faint-hearted should go for the root vegetable rotolo main (£13.50). 51 Queen Caroline Street, W6 (020 8748 6932, www.thegate.tv).
EAT & TWO VEG
Eat & Two Veg is the Automat of London's veggie scene. Stylish and upbeat, it boasts gleaming chrome, some diner-style booths and top burgers (the EatV Cheeseburger offers sweet relief, £8.50). A great place for brunch at the weekend (don't miss the healthy full English fry-up, £6.75), mains include sausage and mash, and schnitzel served with spinach, cream and watercress sauce, £9.95. 50 Marylebone High Street, W1 (020 7258 8595, www.eatandtwoveg.com).
THE WALLACE COLLECTION
There are few more idyllic spots in the capital than Oliver Peyton's Brasserie Modernes, the courtyard restaurant of The Wallace Collection. This Friday and Saturday Michelin-starred head chef Thierry Laborde is offering a three-course Garden Menu, £32, as part of a changing monthly celebration of French cuisine. Main courses include Barigoule purple artichoke, unpasteurised ewe curd and fresh Var truffle. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1 (020 7563 9505).
THE ORRERY
Former head chef Chris Galvin devised the seven-course Menu Potager (£46) for this Michelin-starred Marylebone restaurant. This Conran gem is pricey but it is such a thrill to have a range of dishes, flavours and textures to enjoy (something carnivores take for granted), it's worth it. Who could resist warm English asparagus and fried quail's egg with truffle dressing? 55 Marylebone High Street, W1 (020 7616 8000, www.conran-restaurants.co.uk).
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Reader views (5)
Just to let you know that Michelin Star Chef, Thierry Laborde has now left The Wallace and set-up a new business (The Kitchen - Parsons Green) where he helps customers create everyday meals to take home and cook.
- Mark Stringer, London
I would recommend Govindas. I have eaten at Govindas and the flavours were wonderful and it was very good value. I even bought their cook book!
- Tj, London, England
There are 2 places that aren't mentioned here, that really should've been. I totally agree with Steve and his comment on the wonderful 222 Restaurant. You can either have an evening meal, which of course is delicious, or attend for the buffet all-you-can-eat lunch at only £5.95. The chef Ben always seems to find time to pop out and check your enjoying your meal!
Another place I go if I want a quick Vegan burger, falafal, hotdog etc. is Red Veg in Dean Street (there's also one in Brighton). My favourite meal choice there is the Mushroom Burger with Spicy Potato Wedges.
- Miranda James, London, UK
I was at The Gate just recently; both the food and the staff were great.
Manna is always amazing. Eat and Two Veg is fun.
If you like Lebanese food, try the vegetarian starters at Fairuz on Blandford Street just off Marylebone High Street.
- Rory Harden, London
Why The Gate crops up time after time as a recommended restaurant I will never know - I have been there twice and each time they have managed to put cheese in my vegan meal.
On the second occasion the waitress was so rude I refuse to go there again - and thankfully, I don't need to as there is a wonderful vegan restaurant, 222 Vegetarian on the North End Road!
- Steve Atkinson, London
