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Narrow win for Ramsay in battle of gastropubs
By Robert Dex, Evening Standard 06.09.07
Handsome: Gordon Ramsay's new gastropub was named one of London's finest
Praised: The Ramsay-owned Narrow in Limehouse
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Gordon Ramsay's new gastropub has been named one of the capital's finest only six months after opening.
The Narrow in Limehouse is praised by a new Michelin guide to pub food as "a handsome pub in a grand spot ... as you would expect, the kitchen knows what it's doing and, what's more, the prices are competitive."
The 32-table venue, in a Grade II-listed former dockmaster's house, is rated one of London's six best gastropubs. The guide says it is at the vanguard of a shift back to traditional English cooking in public houses - long mocked for menus stuffed full of tired Mediterranean staples.
The Narrow's menu includes devilled lamb's kidneys, Cumberland sausage and Morecambe Bay shrimps.
Derek Bulmer, who edited the guide, said: "Cooking in British pubs has reached new heights and there is a huge choice available to diners.
"Some are taking the organic route with the help of small, local suppliers, while others focus on regional specialities and long-established local recipes. Some serve creative, contemporary cooking with more of an international flavour, but equally there are plenty of places offering traditional British favourites."
The guide lists 564 of the best pubs serving food in Britain and Ireland. Sixty in London are commended, with 15 new entries from the capital.
A Michelin spokesman said standards in pubs were improving every year: "The food is getting better, the accommodation is getting better, and that is largely because people expect more now. Canny pub owners realise people are prepared to pay for nice food and accommodation."
• The 2008 edition of Michelin's Eating Out In Pubs guide is available now, priced £14.99.
Five that are worth a visit
Thomas Cubitt, SW1
Dining room has "fine period detail" and "unobtrusive service" with modern British dishes.
Brown Dog, SW13
"Charmingly stylish ... daily changing, seasonal menu takes a modern slant on traditional dishes and, although concise, is well-balanced."
Anchor & Hope, SE1
"Noisy but highly convivial atmosphere." Tables can't be booked in advance but the menu, including rare roast venison, crab on toast and grilled razor clams, makes it worth the wait.
The House, N1
"Effortlessly combines a laid-back vibe at the bar" with the dining room's "more urbane atmosphere". Classics on the menu include ploughman's lunch and shepherd's pie.
Admiral Codrington, SW3
"Relaxed, easy-going spot for a drink with a short but well-chosen menu," which includes sophisticated dishes such as foie gras as well as classic pub grub including fishcakes.
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Reader views (1)
A rather generous judgement, I'd say. The food, when it arrives, is edible enough but nothing special. What irked me was the painfully slow service. I will not be in a hurry to return - any more than the staff are in a hurry to look after customers. A wasted opportunity in a smart and cosmopolitan part of London.
- Terry Roll, London
