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Join in a food fiesta
By Emma Sturgess, London Lite 17.10.07
Viva Espana: try the fantastic food and culture of nine Spanish regions at the Taste Spain festival, which runs until Friday
On tapas the world: Camino in Islington hosts a tapathon on Friday from noon-6pm
Simple yet smart: Fino in Charlotte Street
Cool and casual: Tapas Brindisa
Finger-lickin' good: Pinchito Tapas in EC1
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Stop for a moment and listen. Can you hear the tinkle of calasparra rice hitting the pan, the whisper of the knife sliding through the fattest part of the jamón, the glug of the fino bottle? No? Then move a little bit closer to Borough Market and try again. This week, London's gourmet haven, along with the capital's best Spanish restaurants, hosts Taste Spain.
This celebration is being embraced by many of London's Spanish bars and restaurants. It runs until Friday, with special menus, offers, tapathons and the launch of Spain's bestselling cookbook 1,080 Recipes.
If you already know about its famous foodie exports, the Spanish presence at Borough (until 8pm today and tomorrow) will offer further discoveries. Tastings from nine Spanish regions, market stalls from Barcelona and demonstrations by
Spanish and London chefs should offer some lesser-known delicacies.
Here are seven places in the capital to taste Spain.
CAMINO
The pouring of delicious Asturian cider from a great height (80cm to a metre, depending on the height of your waiter) is part of the theatre at Camino. On Friday, the King's Cross newcomer is hosting a tapathon between noon and 6pm. For £20, you can try as much tapas and wine as you like, from paprika-spiked octopus to cod-stuffed roast piquillo peppers. John Radford, author of Cook España, Drink España! will lead expert tastings.
3 Varnisher's Yard, Islington, 020 7841 7330, camino.uk.com
MORO
The iconic Clerkenwell restaurant embraces food traditions from Spain and the Muslim Mediterranean. Homemade staples such as sourdough bread, yoghurt and vinegar provide the backbone for a weekly changing menu and their excellent tapas is best accompanied by a sherry. It is not doing anything special during the festival, just being "as Spanish as ever".
34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1, 020 7833 8336, moro.co.uk
CIGALA
Jake Hodges was among the founders of Moro but he has quietly made his name with his own upstairs-downstairs Bloomsbury restaurant and bar, where pleasure- seekers can enjoy tapas or main courses such as venado a la brasa, a grilled haunch of venison with borlotti beans, chorizo and tomato (£17). There's a special offer on a real autumn comforter: arroz caldos, a stew of hake with shellfish, spiked with saffron, tomatoes, brandy and rice (£14 per person, down from £18).
54 Lamb's Conduit Street, WC1, 020 7405 1717, cigala.co.uk
FINO AND BARRAFINA
First, in 2003, came Fino in Charlotte Street, then came its sister restaurant Barrafina, in Soho's Frith Street, in the summer. Fino is the smarter of the two and offers an extensive dinner menu. Barrafina, based on Barcelona's Cal Pep restaurant, is simpler but you might want to polish your trainers. Fino offers a free glass of sherry when you dine during Taste Spain - try a leg of milk-fed lamb (£28).
Fino, 33 Charlotte Street, W1, 020 7813 8010, finorestaurant.com Barrafina, 54 Frith Street, W1, 020 7813 8016, barrafina.co.uk
MEZA
Your average Spaniard may not recognise sleek Meza as homage to their relaxed culture but head chef Andy Rose likes his tapas. It's not traditional to eat it this way, but when there's a group of you it's easy to chuck £22.50 each into the pot and feast on little plates including morcilla with white bean purée and classic chorizo with sherry.
100 Wardour Street, W1, 020 7314 4002, mezabar.co.uk
TAPAS BRINDISA
This legendary enclave of all food Spanish has been whetting the palates for 20 years. Its tapas bar near Borough has mastered the casual approach - no bookings. You can stand at the bar, throw back some sherry and olives and stride into the night. Chef José Manuel Pizarro celebrates Taste Spain with dishes inspired by 1,080 Recipes.
18-20 Southwark Street, SE1, 020 7357 8880, brindisa.com
PINCHITO TAPAS
The gang behind Brighton's popular Pintxo People restaurant offer Basque-influenced nibbles, divided neatly into finger food, fried dishes and some served still sizzling "in little pots". Try classics such as albondigas (£5), seafood salad (£5) and meat and cheese platters (£5-£12), or mix it up with some "tapas del dia".
32 Featherstone Street, EC1, 020 7490 0121, pintxopeople.co.uk
Taste Spain runs until Friday, visit tastespain.co.uk for more information and special offer vouchers
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