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Our chefs at the helm
Evening Standard 21.11.07
It was Anton Mosimann, who joined The Dorchester Hotel in 1975, who changed the face of hotel dining in London. His Cuisine Naturelle, a cooking style that aimed for lightness and healthiness, was mirrored by a man-management approach of bow-tied utter Swiss reasonableness. Voices were not raised in his kitchen, the first hotel kitchen outside France to be awarded two Michelin stars.
In other Park Lane hotels fellow Continentals laboured to good effect; Peter Kromberg at the Hotel InterContinental, Nico Ladenis at Grosvenor House, Bruno Loubet and Jean-Christophe Novelli at Inn on the Park. Now, with the exception of team Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, home-grown chefs are at the helm on Park Lane.
CHRIS GALVIN
Galvin at Windows, Park Lane London Hilton Hotel, W1 (020 7208 4021) £68
Wide and wonderful views, such as those from the 28th floor at The Hilton, are seldom matched by fine food. Chris Galvin and his head chef Andre Garrett, have changed that. Strictly seasonal ingredients are coaxed into seductive assemblies. Lunchtime offers an eminently fair deal: £45 for three courses, two glasses of wine, coffee and petits fours.
THEO RANDALL
InterContinental Hotel, 1 Hamilton Place, W1 (020 7409 3131) £65
After 15 years working at The River Café it was not surprising that Theo Randall wanted a gaff of his own but the choice of a windowless dining room decorated in corporate shades of brown was odd, not exactly at one with the notion of rustic Italian dishes emerging from a wood-fired oven. Drab surroundings have not impinged on his ability to create vibrant food.
AIDEN BYRNE
Dorchester Grill, Park Lane, W1 (020 7629 8888) £75
Aiden Byrne won a Michelin star when he was head chef at Adlards in Norwich, at 22 apparently the youngest chef ever to be awarded one. Influences from his mentor, Tom Aikens, are apparent in dishes that long ago waved goodbye to British stalwarts such as roast beef and Yorkshire pudding - still available, however. When Aiden considers cottage pie, he makes it four ways and uses veal fillet.
RICHARD CORRIGAN
Grosvenor House, Park Lane, W1 (020 7499 6363).
The talented Irishman, responsible for Lindsay House and Bentley's, is due to open the main restaurant after the hotel's restoration is complete. Watch this space.
