London's best Japanese restaurants

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Promising newcomer: Bincho Yakitori also has great views of the Thames

Nobu: Features Japanese-Peruvian cuisine

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This week saw the publication of the first ever Michelin Guide to Tokyo and it was a serious blow to French culinary self-esteem. Tokyo got an amazing total of 191 stars, more than twice as many as Paris, which boasts only 91, and easily eclipsing both London (50 stars) and New York (49 stars).

What's even more surprising, considering how Franco-centric Michelin choices can be, is that two-thirds of Tokyo's newly star-spangled restaurants serve Japanese food - of the eight Tokyo three-stars, five of them are Japanese. London's excellent Japanese restaurants must be wondering why they are so under-represented in the British Michelin (three single stars - Nobu, Nobu Berkeley and Umu).

Of these, Umu could certainly claim to be hard done by - head chef Ichiro Kubota is thought by many to be the best Japanese chef in London and is working at the same level as many two-star restaurants. Perhaps the reason for Tokyo's glory lies in the fact that research for the guide was carried out by a mixed team of Michelin judges and locals? Here's where you can eat Japanese and eat well in London.

Zuma has no Michelin star but it does have ultra-chic, ultra-celeb customers. Excellent modern Japanese food ranging from sashimi to sushi and grills and backed by a serious sake list. Zuma, 5 Raphael Street, SW7 (020 7584 1010). About £80pp ex-drinks.

Bincho Yakitori is a newcomer that has opened on the second floor of the Oxo Tower. It specialises in grilled dishes and the long dining area has an open kitchen on one side and great views of the Thames on the other. Try the belly pork. Bincho Yakitori, Second Floor, Oxo Tower Wharf, Bargehouse Street, SE1 (020 7803 0858). About £25pp ex-drinks.

Umu has just the one Michelin star. Kyoto cuisine, very serious Japanese food, elegant presentation, careful matching of tastes and textures. The "Kaseki" or tasting menu is blisteringly expensive but worth every penny. Umu, 14-16 Bruton Place, W1 (020 7499 8881). About £60pp ex-drinks.

At Nobu the cuisine is Japanese-Peruvian, as created by Matsuhisa Nobuyuki. Fine sushi and sashimi, and a long-serving signature dish of black cod in miso. A fashionable room to suit fashionable customers. Nobu, 19 Old Park Lane, W1 (020 7447 4747). About £70pp ex-drinks.

Sushi Hiro is a restaurant that's been set up to serve the Japanese community, so dinner is offered between 4.30 and 9.30pm (as in Japan). Peerless sushi, spartan and rather dowdy surroundings and low prices all combine to make this place worth the journey. Sushi Hiro, 1 Station Parade, Uxbridge Road, W5 (020 8896 7820). About £ 25pp ex-drinks.

Kiku is a large, comfortable, Mayfair Japanese restaurant that has a prominently Japanese clientele. Very good sushi and not quite as expensive as the upscale address would suggest. Kiku, 17 Half Moon Street, W1 (020 7499 4208). About £35pp ex-drinks.

Putney has its own neighbourhood Japanese restaurant - the Cho San - and it's a busy place. Admirably unpretentious and with an extensive menu that ranges from sashimi and sushi to grills and noodle dishes. Welcoming. Cho San, 292 Upper Richmond Road, SW15 (020 8788 9626). About £20pp ex-drinks.

Roka is a sister restaurant to Zuma and has a similarly exalted client list. The small dishes are good, also skewers fresh from the grill, sashimi and inventive sushi. Downstairs there is a serious cocktail bar. Roka, 37 Charlotte Street, W1 (020 7580 6464). About £50 pp ex-drinks.

CONVEYOR-BELT COMFORTS
For no-nonsense "grub and go" dining the kaiten (or conveyor belt) sushi bars have much to commend them, even if they are unlikely to be awarded any stars by Mr Michelin. Here are three:

Kulu Kulu. Good fresh fish, great value, central - Kulu Kulu, 76 Brewer Street, W1 (020 7734 7316). About £15pp ex-drinks.

Yo! Sushi. A chain of sushi restaurants, practical rather than gourmet - Yo! Sushi, 52 Poland Street, W1 (020 7254 6751). About £18pp ex-drinks.

Moshi Moshi. At this old established conveyor the chefs make a point of sourcing sustainable fish - Moshi Moshi Sushi, 24 Upper Level, Liverpool Street Station, EC2 (020 7247 3227). About £25pp ex-drinks.

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