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London's best Japanese restaurants
Evening Standard 21.11.07
Promising newcomer: Bincho Yakitori also has great views of the Thames
Nobu: Features Japanese-Peruvian cuisine
Look here too
This week saw the publication of the first ever Michelin Guide to Tokyo and it was a serious blow to French culinary self-esteem. Tokyo got an amazing total of 191 stars, more than twice as many as Paris, which boasts only 91, and easily eclipsing both London (50 stars) and New York (49 stars).
What's even more surprising, considering how Franco-centric Michelin choices can be, is that two-thirds of Tokyo's newly star-spangled restaurants serve Japanese food - of the eight Tokyo three-stars, five of them are Japanese. London's excellent Japanese restaurants must be wondering why they are so under-represented in the British Michelin (three single stars - Nobu, Nobu Berkeley and Umu).
Of these, Umu could certainly claim to be hard done by - head chef Ichiro Kubota is thought by many to be the best Japanese chef in London and is working at the same level as many two-star restaurants. Perhaps the reason for Tokyo's glory lies in the fact that research for the guide was carried out by a mixed team of Michelin judges and locals? Here's where you can eat Japanese and eat well in London.
Zuma has no Michelin star but it does have ultra-chic, ultra-celeb customers. Excellent modern Japanese food ranging from sashimi to sushi and grills and backed by a serious sake list. Zuma, 5 Raphael Street, SW7 (020 7584 1010). About £80pp ex-drinks.
Bincho Yakitori is a newcomer that has opened on the second floor of the Oxo Tower. It specialises in grilled dishes and the long dining area has an open kitchen on one side and great views of the Thames on the other. Try the belly pork. Bincho Yakitori, Second Floor, Oxo Tower Wharf, Bargehouse Street, SE1 (020 7803 0858). About £25pp ex-drinks.
Umu has just the one Michelin star. Kyoto cuisine, very serious Japanese food, elegant presentation, careful matching of tastes and textures. The "Kaseki" or tasting menu is blisteringly expensive but worth every penny. Umu, 14-16 Bruton Place, W1 (020 7499 8881). About £60pp ex-drinks.
At Nobu the cuisine is Japanese-Peruvian, as created by Matsuhisa Nobuyuki. Fine sushi and sashimi, and a long-serving signature dish of black cod in miso. A fashionable room to suit fashionable customers. Nobu, 19 Old Park Lane, W1 (020 7447 4747). About £70pp ex-drinks.
Sushi Hiro is a restaurant that's been set up to serve the Japanese community, so dinner is offered between 4.30 and 9.30pm (as in Japan). Peerless sushi, spartan and rather dowdy surroundings and low prices all combine to make this place worth the journey. Sushi Hiro, 1 Station Parade, Uxbridge Road, W5 (020 8896 7820). About £ 25pp ex-drinks.
Kiku is a large, comfortable, Mayfair Japanese restaurant that has a prominently Japanese clientele. Very good sushi and not quite as expensive as the upscale address would suggest. Kiku, 17 Half Moon Street, W1 (020 7499 4208). About £35pp ex-drinks.
Putney has its own neighbourhood Japanese restaurant - the Cho San - and it's a busy place. Admirably unpretentious and with an extensive menu that ranges from sashimi and sushi to grills and noodle dishes. Welcoming. Cho San, 292 Upper Richmond Road, SW15 (020 8788 9626). About £20pp ex-drinks.
Roka is a sister restaurant to Zuma and has a similarly exalted client list. The small dishes are good, also skewers fresh from the grill, sashimi and inventive sushi. Downstairs there is a serious cocktail bar. Roka, 37 Charlotte Street, W1 (020 7580 6464). About £50 pp ex-drinks.
CONVEYOR-BELT COMFORTS
For no-nonsense "grub and go" dining the kaiten (or conveyor belt) sushi bars have much to commend them, even if they are unlikely to be awarded any stars by Mr Michelin. Here are three:
Kulu Kulu. Good fresh fish, great value, central - Kulu Kulu, 76 Brewer Street, W1 (020 7734 7316). About £15pp ex-drinks.
Yo! Sushi. A chain of sushi restaurants, practical rather than gourmet - Yo! Sushi, 52 Poland Street, W1 (020 7254 6751). About £18pp ex-drinks.
Moshi Moshi. At this old established conveyor the chefs make a point of sourcing sustainable fish - Moshi Moshi Sushi, 24 Upper Level, Liverpool Street Station, EC2 (020 7247 3227). About £25pp ex-drinks.
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Reader views (13)
I have ever been to Japan so cannot comment on authenticity but my favourite two japanese restaurants fro quality and reasonable price and Sakura off Regents St and Kyoto in Romilly St. Found both by accident (i.e. exploration) and the number of Japanese who eat there.
- Gerry, Winchester, England
Also big lovers of Japanese food, we travelled to London, mainly with the intention of eating at this famous restaurant. The food was indeed lovely although not special, however we did feel rushed, and after our dishes and a couple of drinks we were finished within the hour. When we got the bill of £155 (actually £135 without tip) we decided not to pay the "optional" 15% service charge of £20. Mainly as we don't agree with service charges put on the bill. On leaving the restaurant, to our horror the waitress came running out after us insisting we had not paid enough. I explained that the service charge was indeed optional, but was told we must see the manager and not leave the restaurant. To add too our embarrassment I was taken back upstairs to explain to the management! Is this "optional" service charge or harassment for a large tip? Would not recommend this restaurant, unless you like being told what tip to leave, and completely humiliated if you decide not to!
- R Edwards, Leeds UK
I agree J, Lisa must try Armando in Golders Green, great Japanese, trendy and friendly atmosphere, really good food. The first kosher restaurant worth of a Michelin star?
- Dave, Maida Vale, London
Lisa, it would be great if you'd be willing to try Armando's in Golders Green NW11. It's a wonderful kosher alternative, and I'm sure they'd welcome you with open arms! It's a great restaurant...
- J, Essex
As a lover of Japanese food, I have to say that we ate at Nobu Berkley Street on Saturday night and we were singularly unimpressed. We felt as though we were in a conveyer belt and the food was certainly not worth the incredibly high bill we were presented with. We once ate at a Michelin star restaurant in Amsterdam and there was no comparison. That meal was out of this world. Sorry, but Nobu really doesn't rate.
- Lisa Goldblatt, London, England
I have been to Zuma a couple of times, really like it. Great food, nice vibe, cool staff.
- Nirmal Dhiman, UK
I'd like to recommend two very different Japanese restaurants in London.
For special occasions: Saki near Smithfield. Excellent sushi, brilliant tasting / Kaiseki menu. Pricey but absolutely worth it. Great shop too.
More down at heel: Asakusa, Camden. The closest you'll get to a genuine Izakaya in the UK IMHO. Busy and noisy and everything you'd want to eat and more.
- Lewis Morrison, Edinburgh Scotland
Great to see some Yakitori restaurants have finally reached London! It is my all time favourite way to dine here. Although it is certainly a lot cheaper here. Lets hope the trend soon extends to other parts of the UK. I will be sure to check out the recommended resturants next time I hit home.
- Tamzin Williams, Currently Kurume, Japan (Hometown London)
I still will never get why everyone raves on about Nobu, all 3 visits for me have been disappointing, I think Zuma is a far better option. Umu is amazing too. Shame that Tsunami in Clapham went downhill because that was excellent and a third of the price of its equivalent counterparts. Wouldnt put Yo Sushi! on that list, bland as bland can be.
- Tanya Daly, London, UK
My partner who is Japanese and a real foodie had a good giggle about your list of Japanese restaurants! The Japanese community in London know the best restaurants for authentic Japanese food( not fusion such as Zuma & Nobu) are Ikeda, Defune & Matsuri. Admittedly they are expensive but Japanese food is all about the quality of ingredients and the incredible skills of the Sushi chef, these things do not come cheaply.
- Stephen Eagle, Esher, Surrey
I think the range of London-based Japanese that travel up to Willesden Green soley to eat at Sushi Say might disagree with Charles Campion's assessment of the best the city has to offer. It has one of the finest sushi chefs in the country and a wide ranging menu that delivers fantastic flavours.
- Howard Ruichi Watson, London, UK
What about Sumosan! The Japanese pearl of Mayfair. The food is miles ahead of Nobu, even though Nobu has a star.
- Maria, London
I think this is a good list. However in my experience even the best Japanese restaurants in London are no match for Japanese food in Tokyo or Kyoto. Some of this comes down to the tremendous quality of produce available in Japan, some to the sheer number of restaurants operating there (over 190,000 restaurants in Tokyo!) and a strong culture of eating out. Umu and Nobu are good restaurants, but they are only worth one star. Sadly for better you need to get on a plane.
- Andy Hayler, London, England
