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Starters' orders at Gordon's new pub

By Amar Singh, Evening Standard 21.02.08

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            The Warrington

Branching out: Gordon Ramsay is said to have paid £5.2 million for The Warrington


            Gordon Ramsay

Success: The chef has stuck to a traditional menu

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Gordon Ramsay's latest venture - a £6 million gastropub in west London - is already a sell-out within weeks of opening.

The Warrington opened earlier this month, without publicity, but is already fully booked for several weeks due to word-of-mouth recommendations.

Kate Moss is among those who have been seen eating at the pub in Warrington Crescent, Maida Vale.

It features an art nouveau bar and dining room and has been renovated extensively since Ramsay bought it more than a year ago.

The TV chef today said that sticking to a traditional menu and sympathetically restoring the pub's listed Victorian interior had been crucial in winning local support.

"The Warrington is a landmark pub and I'm delighted that it is back open and doing so well," he said. "It's a historic neighbourhood pub serving great food and that's the way it's going to stay."

The menu features classics such as steak and kidney pie (£11.50) plus more adventurous dishes like braised Gloucester pig cheeks with swede (£11.00) and roast guinea fowl with puy lentils and bacon (£13.25). Bar snacks include pork pies (£6) and pickled cockles (£1.50).

Ramsay is said to have paid £5.2million for the Grade II listed former Warrington hotel, which dates back to the 1850s.

The pub's stained-glass windows, mosaic-tiled porch, stone fireplace and frescoes featuring semi-naked women - reputedly a nod to its former life as a brothel - have all been retained.

The Warrington is run by Mark Sargeant, the former head chef at Ramsay's Claridge's restaurant, who is now tasked with overseeing the Ramsay group's expansion into pubs.

It was bought by Gordon Ramsay Holdings as part of a strategy to conquer London's gastropub market.

Last week, Ramsay purchased his fourth venture - the York And Albany in Camden, which is set to reopen in May.

His two other pubs are The Narrow in Limehouse and The Devonshire in Chiswick, which have also been well received.


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Reader views (6)

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It was the most disappointing dinner after trying a few days in a row to get in! Very average but very pretentious. I loved this pub before as it is my local, but will not be going back.

- Mariam, London

It's my local. Went the Monday after it opened. Very disappointed. Not up to his usual standard of food and they have really crammed the tables in. Not quite sure where the money he spent on renovations went - it doesn't look very different. There are much better places to eat in the area. I think he may have ruined what was a fantastic pub as "celebs" are now going to flock here. Why couldn't he leave a lovely corner of Maida Vale alone!

- Jane, London

I tried to get a reservation but couldn't get in. This used to be my local pub where I watched my precious Liverpool win the Champions League and where I used to watch the cricket and the World Cup, now I have to be on the guest list to get into my local!

- Leena Chandarana, Madia Vale

Has he learnt how to make veggie burgers yet?

- Mj Hibbett, London

I remember when the Warrington had a fantastic Thai restaurant upstairs. I do like Gordon Ramsay, but did he need to buy this pub? I suppose this is what all of the pubs are going to turn into seeing as the beer prices are out of control!

- Mark, Harleston, Norfolk

Good God. Yet another gastropub in London. This used to be a pretty decent pub a couple of years back.Suffice to say,yet another one I can no longer use. Next please!

- Eddie, Marylebone


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