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A taste of dim sum
By Charles Campion, Evening Standard 26.03.08
Chinese whispers are in the air. The China Design Now exhibition is showing off the country's most exciting visual talent at the Victoria & Albert Museum and, though controversial, London expects the arrival of the Olympic torch relay on 6 April on its way to Beijing. What more appropriate time to take a look at that much-misunderstood Chinese delicacy, dim sum?
Dim sum (or in Mandarin, dian xin) has come to mean “little eats” even if the literal translation is to “light the heart”. There are two main types of dim sum restaurant, those where you order various items which are cooked to order, and those where heated trolleys bring a succession of different dishes to the table and you choose on an ad hoc basis.
Both styles have their supporters: dim sum from the kitchen can be fresher but there's no waiting for your meal in a trolley restaurant as well as the frisson of being served unexpected dishes.
As an ordering strategy start with some classic steamed dumplings: har kau — minced prawns; and siu mai — minced pork; add cheung fun — strange, slippery rolls like delicate cannelloni with a range of different fillings. It is said that every first-timer's favourite dim sum is the char sui pau — a light, bready, steamed doughnut with a sweet, roast pork filling.
Then there are fried dim sum such as “paper-wrapped” prawns or that old favourite the spring roll. By all means try the spooky ones like chickens' feet — which can be delicate and delicious when cooked well, though full of tiny bones. And the modern dim sum restaurants like Yauatcha do surprisingly good turnip cakes and steamed rice parcels packed with unadvertised goodies.
Royal China, 13 Queensway, W2 (020 7221 2535). Famous for dim sum, you should order the roast pork puff.
Golden Palace, 146-150 Station Road, Harrow, Middlesex (020 8863 2333). Large and busy, the Golden Palace is known for its excellent sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaf.
New World, 1 Gerard Place, W1 (020 7734 0396). Enormous trolley restaurant spread over several floors. The house speciality is ho fun noodles.
Yauatcha, 15 Broadwick Street, W1 (020 7494 8888). Ultra-chic, ultra-smart. The dish to try is the delicious venison puff.
Ping Pong, 45 Great Marlborough Street, W1 (020 7851 6969). A modern interpretation with several branches, sit up at the bar. Huge range of steamed and fried dumplings with lots of vegetarian options. Remember to keep hold of your Ping Pong chopstick cover for £3 off the China Design Now entry price at the V&A.
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